Monday, 28 October 2013

Burda of the month: printed pants 10/2013#127A

I was reading Paola's blog recently where she was wondering whether she was too late to join the coloured pants trend with her lovely green pants (definitely not). But I was wondering the same thing because I had been thinking about making some floral pants for spring/summer, a trend that has been around for a while but after a bit of snoop shopping I figured they are still pretty much current. And besides the point of sewing for ourselves is to be able to make what we like, when we like without being dictated to by seasons or fashion designers!

This is quite out of my usual sewing zone - to be sewing pants first of all which I rarely ever do, and to be making a pair from a print fabric instead of a subdued solid colour. But the good thing about my Burda challenge is that everyone now and then I like to try something new and different to what I would usually sew and see what comes out.


So for my October Burda challenge (made during the actual month of October too!) I chose to make the slim fitting trousers 10/2013 #127A:


These are pretty simple pants, rather quick to make but as we all know it's the fitting that takes the most time and effort to get right. Being rather cavalier as usual, I chose not to make a muslin instead just doing some flat pattern measurements. Surprisingly it turned out pretty well (phew!). I wanted to make some slim fitting but slouchy summer pants so I didn't narrow the leg to match those worn by the model in the photograph. I cut out a size 38 to fit over my hips, and took in a little at the waist to stop the gaping that inevitably happens. The back view really shows off my pear shape in an unflattering way, but hey I'm all for truth in reporting around here!


There are some diagonal folds emanating from my saddle bag thighs downward to my knees, but apart from that the fit isn't too bad. What I really liked about this pattern is that it is sewn like men's pants - the centre back seam is done last after the waistband is attached to the pants in two pieces, which means you can take in the centre back seam to fit:


As you can see I did make the centre back seam a little deeper at the waist to get it to fit snugly. I also like that this pattern, like most Burda pants patterns uses an extended pocket piece that connects to zipper, which is a much neater way of doing things:


The fabric I used is a cotton/linen blend bought from Spotlight a few years ago. The fabric didn't wrinkle very much at all much to my surprise, but it did 'grow' a lot after wearing as I suspected it would. After a few hours it bagged out at the knees and the seat giving me the dreaded saggy butt look but I made the waistband facing from interfaced cotton poplin and put belt loops on the waistband so I could wear a belt and make sure they stayed at my waist. So since they didn't fall down I can live with a bit of sagginess - they are meant to be slouchy linen summer pants.


So overall, I'd say this pattern is pretty good (but I'm not all that experienced with pants pattern so I can't say definitively that it's any better than any other pants pattern). One thing I didn't like at all was their instructions for the fly zipper with shield. As much as I read and read those instructions, I just couldn't understand them at all so instead I used this very helpful tutorial with lots of pictures over at Grainline Studio. If I make these again though I would add fly extensions to the centre front of the pants when cutting out rather sewing on a fly extension - it's just a bit quicker and simpler to do it that way.

I took about 4cm off the length of the pants and still have a 5cm hem on these - clearly my legs aren't as long as the leggy models in the magazine that these patterns seem to be drafted for. I did hem them to wear with flats and not heels so they are a bit shorter:



I wanted to try wearing these pants with heels to see how they looked, but my mini-me decided to wear my heels around and copy my poses instead:


How scary that at 4 and half years of age she thinks that posing for photographs like this is normal!

44 comments:

  1. Those look great! And being that it a small scale blue print, they are perfect for trying out a fun trend without going too crazy! it have this fabulous white and fuchsia ikat fabric that was just screaming to be print shorts this summer... But I didn't quite hear 'me until shorts season was over! Now it's like 30 degrees F outside and I'm really hopping print shorts will still be current next summer, cause I SOOOO want to make and wear here shorts!

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    1. oooh good idea - I have some left over fabric that maybe I could squeeze some shorts from. And don't you just love sewing projects that talk to us at the wrong time?

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  2. I think you picked the right print for these...the smaller scale vs. the larger scale encapsulates the trend but doesn't make it over the top! This is a great outfit! I love seeing the green in your pictures while everything here is turning those pretty autumn colors. And please my 2 year old granddaughter has an array of poses which she strikes the minute a phone or camera is lifted in her direction. I think it's just the culture now.

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    1. You're right - the scale of print was critical to stop them looking hilariously bad!

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  3. Love these...just enough print to be on trend, without screaming that you're trying to hard. And a great fit!

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    1. oh good, I've got just the right balance then! It's always a relief when things turn out how you imagine they would look in your head

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  4. Too much cuteness in these photos. I love your pants!

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  5. These look great on you, and I think you're too hard on yourself by saying the rear view is unflattering!

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    1. thank you - I really do need to stop being so critical about myself

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  6. Great pants Kristy. Looks not only fab but comfortable too. And it looks like Anna has a career ahead of her with that pose.

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    1. I know! She has an attitude that rivals Naomi Campbell's so maybe she does have a future there..........

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  7. The pants are fantastic. The print is great.

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  8. Looks like you have a "model in the making". Your pants look very stylish and I have been trying to find some patterned fabric to do the same. Didn't realise that Burda had the pockets stays (tummy control) included in their pattern!

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    1. Yes my model in the making has the attitude to match too!

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  9. Oh I really like these! Well done getting such a good fit without a muslin. Pants scare me. I have also used this exact fabric, in my case for a tunic style dress. I love the fabric, but you are right, there is a tendency for sag in areas that encounter strain. Even in my tunic dress I end up with a saggy bum. It's not a great look in a tunic dress!

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    1. I don't think a saggy bum is a good look in any garment, except maybe harem pants (which aren't a good look anyway!). Pants usually scare me too, I don't have the patience for endless fittings

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  10. Yes, youngsters live in an image saturated world now, for better or worse :)

    The pants are gorgeous - and for casual and comfy I think the look, print and fit are perfect. And unless you have total form fitting (in which case you couldn't move) there is always going to be some under bottom sag -especially with stretch as it bags out. I think it is a good idea to revert to methods that work for you when sewing.

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    1. Thanks SarahLiz - you're right about the need for movement ease

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  11. I think your pants are great and you have done a very good job making and fitting them. The fabric looks so nice made up into pants, plus they look so good on you. I only use Burda patterns for pants and with a little tweaking, they often turn out really well. I like the back waist-band seam so that you can adjust to fit the waist line.

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    1. Thanks Marjorie - this is the second Burda pants pattern that has worked out relatively well for me, I think I'll stick with them in future too

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  12. A print winner for pants, easily. Considering you only flat pattern adjusted this... the fit is amazing! A great balance between tailored pants and something a little breezier for summer days. And I don't believe that being pear shaped is something to be annoyed about... You have a trim figure :) I actually spent all my formative teenage years and much of my twenties wishing for bigger hips than I had!

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    1. Thanks Melanie. I've come to accept my pear shape, although I can't imagine wanting bigger hips (except for during childbirth maybe!)

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  13. Your pants look really good! I agree that lots of time goes into fitting.
    I think you're petite and don't have saddlebags or anything like that, it's just how pears are. I think we're the same shape, just you're smaller than I am.

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    1. Thanks Kyle. I think we're the same shape too, because the changes you usually make are the ones I need too

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  14. They look great and the small scale of the print is a good introduction to the world of patterned pants. I have yet to go there, but the idea is growing on me!

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    1. Thanks Alison - took me a while to get there too but now they are a great part of my wardrobe

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  15. Your trousers look great and I also like the small print. I like the bolder prints on others but know I probably couldn't get away with it. I think the fit is great. They look very comfortable but so smart with that nice white shirt.

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    1. Yeah I didn't think I could get away with a bolder print so I stuck with safe and nice

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  16. These look awesome!
    And so comfortable.

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    1. Thanks Jodie. I'm hoping you're all good after the recent bushfires?

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  17. Love your printed pants and you achieved a great fit.

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  18. I like your pants and think they look just great!

    Just wondering: I really wanted to make these too until I saw that the pattern calls for stretch fabric. Did you use a stretch?

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    1. Thanks Susan. This fabric doesn't have any stretch component to it, although being a linen cotton it's not a rigid or firmly woven fabric either. I think it would be fine out of a non stretch pattern because the pattern isn't as closely fitting as the photo suggests

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  19. Love the microprint pants and that Mother and daughter shot just broke me up.

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    1. Thanks Gail. I'd like to say that my daughter doesn't get it from me, but clearly she's been watching me do too many blog photos

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  20. I love your floral pants! They do look wonderfully comfortable for warmer weather, but are still quite smart (I'm speaking Australian!). Enjoy your warm Spring! It was 35 F/2 C this morning over here. :(

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    1. I don't think it ever gets that cold in Sydney, even during the depths of our winter! And to speak proper Australian you need to add a 'mate' to the end of your sentence LOL

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  21. I like your pants too. Something about a small print that seems comfortable.
    Like some of the others have said; they aren't screaming look at me!!! But
    then again... if that's what you want (the screaming...) you didn't make it! LoL
    Anna does have it down doesn't she! Our grands are the same way... ready
    with a pose when the camera comes out. One grandson has a fake smile he
    uses... once in a while I catch him when he isn't looking.

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    1. Thanks Jean - I can definitely do without the screaming look at me (I have two small children screaming that at me all day!). And what is it with small children and fake photo smiles - it's not that hard to smile for the camera!

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  22. Lovely pants! I have this issue..yay me! I love Burda pants and the fact that the back seam is sewn like men's pants makes it very intriguing.

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    1. Thanks Claire. The back seam sewn like men's pants is definitely a good thing, it makes fitting so much easier

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