Wednesday, 12 February 2014

WIP: Burda 2/2014 #115 - trying to find my inner quirkiness

Firstly thanks to everyone who has chimed in with their 2c on the issue of responding to blog comments, of course there is no consensus on how to do but it's clear that everyone likes to get a reply! It's all very helpful so thank you.

Meanwhile I thought I'd post my current work in progress because I'm hoping that by blogging it and working through the issues it'll help me decide whether to actually make it or not! You see the pattern I've chosen is a slightly bit different in a way that only Burda can do, and I'm still trying to decide whether it's good in a quirky interesting way, or if it's just ugly:


There are quite a few patterns I like in the February issue, but I was drawn to this one and I do like to use my Burda challenge projects to stretch my personal style sometimes. It's Burda 2/2014 #115 - described in the magazine as a structured peplum top although it does say to use jacket fabrics with some body so I'm planning to make it as a jacket. I think I'm love with the fabric they've used more than the pattern - that checkered jacquard in a teal, white and grey colourway is just divine.

The pattern is sized for petites (17-21) so I decided to make a muslin to test it out. I know! Very grown up and sensible of me to do that instead of rushing head long into it as I normally do. I cut out a size 17 because in jackets I usually make a size 34, and happily the waist sits a good spot and the length are sitting pretty well:

 
I made one side with the sleeve cap and one without, and I think it actually looks better with the sleeve cap which is the crazy bit of the pattern. I need to take in the curve of the sleeve seam at the shoulder because it sticks way out from my actual shoulder and do a forward shoulder adjustment because the outer seam of the sleeves are sitting too far back.


I also need to raise the underarm seam because it's sitting too low making it hard to lift my arms which is a change I pretty much always have to make:


At the back I need to take some excess fabric out from the sides under the arms, but I think the waist and the mild peplum looks quite fitted and flattering.


That back view certainly makes my shoulders look as wide as an Olympic rower, but I think that taking in the outer sleeve seam will reduce that effect a bit.

Despite the peplum this jacket doesn't use too much fabric, so I think I will go ahead and make it up because I certainly don't have a shortage of fabrics and the raglan style sleeves mean that this is a quick style to sew.  I have a metallic silver heavy matte textured satin that's been waiting in the stash for a while to be used, and I think this might be it!

27 comments:

  1. You're right that the sleeve cap adds so much more than without - I wouldn't have expected that! It looks so much better in muslin form that I thought it would, really quite flattering. I'm looking forward to seeing this done!

    ReplyDelete
  2. That's looking great Kristy! I agree re shoulder cap.

    ReplyDelete
  3. I am looking forward to seeing this one finished as well!

    ReplyDelete
  4. I want to make this but lack the responsibleness to muslin! Lol!!! I think the shoulders are wide in a good way. It looks really good and only needs minor tweaks.

    I have to decide which piece of fabric should become this lovely little piece!

    ReplyDelete
  5. Can't wait to see the finished product, but I do have a question - how do you make fitting adjustments for places you can't reach - like your back? Does the hubster pin out the adjustments for you?

    ReplyDelete
  6. I saw that pattern on the Burda website and I thought it was so intriguing. glad you are trying it and can't wait to see the result.

    ReplyDelete
  7. I can't wait to see this in the matte satin! I didn't realize this was designed as a top, I just 'saw' it as a jacket. It's a great design.

    ReplyDelete
  8. I was looking at that pattern last night in the magazine - I think the muslin looks great, and I agree that the cap sleeve really works here.

    ReplyDelete
  9. Your muslin actually looks better than the Burda's sewn version. In that I can see the details. I liked it before but now I'm loving it! It's been eons since I've worked with Burda but I'm about to break that hiatus. Looking forward to your finished version.

    ReplyDelete
  10. I think the shoulder cap doodads look fantastic. I would have thought the jacket too wacky until you made up the muslin. Now I want one of my own.

    ReplyDelete
  11. I really like the cap sleeve too. Does it feel like it sits ok on your waist? As I know the petites are for a shorter back length and I made a petite up without altering beforehand - but then the waist annoyed me when I wore it!

    ReplyDelete
  12. Oh, my, this is marvelous...I need to find a copy of this magazine ASAP. This is going to be a great piece!

    ReplyDelete
  13. I really like the look of this jacket, including the unique sleeve. Your muslin appears to indicate that the bodice is too big for you - both front and back. Maybe if you went down a size, or graded down a size, the armscyes would behave themselves, and simultaneously tame down the fit over the shoulder blades and bust?

    ReplyDelete
  14. The cap sleeve keeps this jacket looking fresh.

    ReplyDelete
  15. I'm crazy about this jacket - I'm a huge fan of peplum jackets & I think the cap sleeve is fabulous. I've been hunting my stash looking for something to try it with! Good luck

    ReplyDelete
  16. I like it. The bust area looks to me to have too much fabric but you can tweak that with the princess seams. The sleeve cap is a nice detail.

    ReplyDelete
  17. I'm amazed I actually like the sleeve cap in your version, when I saw the pattern it only confused me (as in: What's this?).
    Some Burda patterns just have to be done up by someone else to make me appreciate them.

    ReplyDelete
  18. Have been toying with the idea of trying this jacket as the details are amazing! So very glad to see it being made up. Sleeves definitely need the cap. Wore a dress yesterday that strangled me around the neck all day and then I remembered your comment about a forward shoulder recently so am off to try and alter the pattern. Thanks for that and for the information on the Burda subscription.

    ReplyDelete
  19. I loved most fabrics used in Burda's Feb issue, including this one. I am happy to see I am not the only one having problems with Burda armholes sitting too low. I was recently surprised to find out that La mia boutique and an indie french company (Chemise Margot is the pattern I am referring to) have the perfect armhole! Looking forward to seeing your finished version.

    ReplyDelete
  20. I've been in love with the pattern ever since I first saw it, but because I am on the tall side and don't really understand the whole pattern changing process I never considered it for myself. But I think it looks great on you, and definitely even greater with the sleeve cap!
    Do you think the pattern would be hard to "tallify"? If the arm hole sits low anyway I might just get away with lenghening the bodice pieces? Anyway, I look forward to seeing your finished garment!

    ReplyDelete
  21. It looks great already, this is on my list too mostly for those sleeve caps so I am glad you are keeping them!

    ReplyDelete
  22. If you like the fabric you can actually buy it on the Tessuti webiste! As soon as I saw this jacket I realised I'd seen it before. Ingrid

    ReplyDelete
  23. Interesting jacket and the sleeve cap certainly finishes it off. I think that there is too much fabric in your upper bodice, have you tried to pin out the excess fabric on the princess seams both front and back, this might also raise the underarm.

    ReplyDelete
  24. Hurrah! I've been interested in this pattern too. Also the slightly similar #127 from the current "Goth" collection. I love how different it looks when made in other fabrics, I saw it somewhere on the web done in a loose pale yellow tweed. Please write about how you're going to raise the armhole, I have a raglan sleeve dress where I have to do that too and I'm stumped. Thanks!

    ReplyDelete
  25. I loved this jacket when I first saw it in the magazine but thought if I made it I would leave the sleeve cap off. But seeing your muslin, it definitely looks better with the cap. I am sure that you will make this jacket just perfect for you and I look forward to seeing it made. Good luck.

    ReplyDelete
  26. Its definitely quirky in an interesting kind of way, looking forward to seeing the final product

    ReplyDelete