Saturday, 15 May 2010

Burda 9/2009 #127 and Burda 1/2009 #128: the green suit

I've finally finished my green skirt suit, green in both colour and eco credentials because it's made completely from thrifted materials. Seriously, the fabric, lining and buttons are from op shops, the zipper is pulled out of a doomed project and even the interfacing was bought at a garage sale. Only the thread is newly purchased, because I've had heartache in the past using very old thread and it's associated snapping, tangling and fluffing as it passed through my sewing machine.

So if I just ignore the cost of the pattern, which is probably astronomical given how little I use the Burda magazines compared to the cost of the subscription, overall this suit cost me next to nothing but turned out fantastic:



The jacket is from Burda 9/09, pattern 127. This jacket is so easy to make, particularly if you're wary of setting in sleeves or dealing with notched collars. The sleeve is in two parts, and the sleeves get sewn on to the front and back pieces separately, and then you sew one long sleeve from the neckline along the shoulder seam, down the outside arm seam to the cuff. This makes it very easy to construct, but I found it hard to get a close fit. The Burda description is that this is a loose fitting jacket, but while I got the front to sit well, the back is a little baggy:




I guess a muslin would have come in handy here! Oh well, I have to keep reminding myself that I don't normally stand around in a photographic pose, and in real life it may not be noticeable.

The fabric is a wool or wool blend possibly, and it presses easily especially since I block interfaced all of the jacket pieces. Interfacing and putting in a back stay was about the extent of proper tailoring techniques I used, because I couldn't tell where the roll line was for the collar to do any padstitching, but there is an internal button just under the collar point on the inside which holds the collar in place properly anyway.

The skirt pattern I wasn't overly enthused about. It's the exclusive design from Burda 1/09, which is the first time I've sewn one of the exclusive designs in the magazine. Even though they are supposed to be designed by international designers and not Burda designers, I didn't find much difference in terms of pattern design or instructions really. I picked this skirt because of the vertical lines to match the jacket, and so that the tabs at the waist would make the skirt interesting if worn on it's own. The tabs at the waist are just decorative, and are actually sewn to the front skirt panel. They were super fiddly to sew on. Even with a thorough pressing and clipping the curves they still look a bit dodgy.


I also found the skirt to be very boxy, the side seams had hardly any shaping to them whilst my body has lots of shaping! So I ended up taking the side seams in a few centimetres above my hip and below my hip to the hem line just to give it a little more shaping.

I underlined the skirt with organza because the fabric is a loose weave and I hope that interlining will help prevent it bagging out as well as reduce wrinkling. The real test will come when I wear it for a full day at work next week. I used fabric covered buttons on the skirt to match the jacket, but they are hidden by the jacket when worn together.

I possibly will make this jacket again in a funky colour or fabric to wear casually with jeans, although I will pinch out a fair amount of excess in the back and probably make the sleeves full length. I meant to make these full length sleeves, but somewhere between deciding that when looking at the pattern photo and tracing out the sleeves I completely forgot! I think it looks ok though with a long sleeved top underneath poking out, my wrists get far too cold at work otherwise.

And for my next trick, I've threaded my overlocker with red thread so be prepared for some primary colour happening here soon!

36 comments:

  1. It looks really nice on you. And it's not gray.

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  2. That looks really good on you.

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  3. Oh, my. Oh, my. That is a lovely suit. I will have to take another look at that pattern.

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  4. Just beautiful - and beautifully made.

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  5. Looks amazing - I'll fight you for that skirt (lol).

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  6. I love it!! It looks fantastic! I"d be thrilled to own this!!

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  7. That looks fantastic on you! I love it.

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  8. Nice work- you'll outsmart them in the office in this!

    The back looks like it needs a sway back adjustment -is that an alteration you normally need to do?

    However, I agree with you that it's not really noticeable on its own and the final overall effect is simply stunning,

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  9. Your green suit is sure to be envied!
    Has anyone mentioned how cute those lil black shoes are?

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  10. I really like your new suit!

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  11. That is a very elegant look and the colour suits you beautifully.

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  12. You look absolutely fabulous. I love the color and texture of the fabric, and even the cropped sleeves on you.

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  13. Great fabric find! You look fabulous.

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  14. Great suit! Love the covered buttons.

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  15. I like this very much. I have some loose weave Vera Wang wool in green that I was thinking of making into this jacket. I love garments that come from op shop fabrics - it's like getting something free!

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  16. Normally I would not comment when someone already has this many comments already. I mean, really, does this person need to hear my two cents worth? You do! That is absolutely one of the prettiest suits I think I have ever seen you sew. Awesome, fabulous, oh! Did I say I love it? It's 6 am and I need more coffee to think of more wonderful things to say. BUT I LOVE IT!

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  17. This is a lovely suit and looks so good on you!

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  18. This suit is super cute and the color is amazing.

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  19. You really do look fantastic in this one! Amazing job with the little Burda details.

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  20. Ummm, alright. If that's all I have to do to get such an awesome looking jacket, I'm sold. That's fantastic. You look so sleek!

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  21. Wonderful! I really like the shorter sleeves - with the black peaking out to match the neckline...and the shoes - Oh so matchy - love it :) (you should see me today - purple from head to toe, including handbag) The back is fine too - it is a boxy look so it doesn't look "wrong". And from op shop fabric - way to go! Very cute shoes too!

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  22. Your suit is absolutely gorgeous - both the jacket and the skirt. I'm now on a search for the jacket pattern.

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  23. Wow... stunning!
    I have been following your blog for a while now and am absolutely amazed by what you manage to create. Very inspiring. Everytime I see your projects, I want to go directly to my sewing machine and start something for myself. I only started sewing a year ago, so I am a long way from whipping something up that looks as professional as yours...
    Thanks for sharing your projects!
    your admiring reader from Germany,
    Anja :-)

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  24. Fabulous suit!!! You are making that jacket sound mighty tempting--no notched collar? easy construction? I might be able to handle it.

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  25. It looks so expensive! Beautiful job.

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  26. Wow. You are probably the most stylish planner on the planet.

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  27. Lovely suit. You look beautiful in it!

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  29. Depending on how you did your lining (I think you said that you lined it!) couldn't you take two small darts in the middle of the side back? You know the type of darts that start say below the shoulder blade and end above the waist. That would take out the extra and still give it a smart tailored look... Of course you would have to try it on inside out to have someone help to give it the proper shape! And then the same with the lining. And then again on the pattern pieces if you want to make it again. It's a thought. I have a tendency to do a lot of alterations.... after the fact or on clothes I buy/get at 2nd hand shopps!

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