Burda 8/2009 #128 - the queue jumper dress

The reason I don't participate in SWAPs (Sewing With A Plan) even though I think they are eminently sensible is because as soon as I make a list of projects to sew I will sew anything but what is on that list! And this dress has just proved that to me again.

Over my Christmas holiday when I couldn't sew I bought a few pieces of fabric and made a list of projects I wanted to make this summer using fabrics and patterns I already own. And it's a loooong list so I had no business buying new fabric and adding to it.

But when I was in Spotlight a few days ago buying thread this beautiful sage green floral cotton sateen caught my eye and before I knew it I had bought it, washed it and made it into a new dress.

This dress is Burda 8/2009 #128 which is from their Parisian collection and unfortunately doesn't seem to be available on line to download:

I've made this dress 3 times before: the first version in a grey herringbone fabric that I made in 2010 and still wear frequently; the second version in a fuschia cotton drill which I wore until the fabric frayed at the shoulder seam from my handbag; and the third version  modified for maternity wear made in ponti knit which I wore until I was no longer pregnant (obvs).

For this green floral version I made the same modifications I made for the second version - used cap sleeves instead of three quarter sleeves and seperated the single back piece into a bodice and skirt so I could continue the waist seam all the way around and better adjust for my sway back. I also re-traced the pattern in a size larger because that grey dress is currently very tight on me, but due to the stretch in the sateen I shouldn't have bothered because I ended up taking it along the side seams anyway.

Unfortunately going up a size has meant it's too wide for me at the neckline and it gapes a bit much like the maternity version above. The first version does this slightly too, which is probably due to my poor posture and forward sloping shoulders, but going up that extra size really exaggerates it. I think I will add two small angled darts at the neckline to reduce that gaping, because it fits ok across the bust. Although I probably should also have re-positioned the bust dart too, because I've breastfed two babies in the years since I made that first dress and things just aren't what they used to be!

Being a pear shape, I am usually loathe to add extra fabric around the lower half of my body but I think this tulip shape is quite flattering as it emphasises my waist more so than my hips. The back is a plain sheath dress so there isn't any volume there, and the side and back views are quite streamlined to offset the front:

The original pattern doesn't include a vent or a split seam at the back which makes walking in it quite restricted. Especially in that grey version I made because the fabric has no stretch at all. For the fuschia version and this version I added a vent extension so I could move normally in this dress, because even though there is plenty of room at the hips the skirt is quite pegged at the hem:

I think the dress benefits from a belt though - without it the dress just lacks a certain something but it still fits ok.

The belt also works to cover up the waistline seam at the front - it appears a bit curved due to the pleats I guess even though it's actually a straightline. Not that anyone would notice this, especially when it's over a rounded tummy, but I think it looks better with the belt.

When I wore this dress to work today I got loads of compliments from my colleagues - from those who know I sew and others who asked me where I bought it from. The fabric is certainly eye-catching, it was a great buy on sale of course because I'm thrifty like that!

I think the quality of sateen has improved at Spotlight, at least this one anyway. In the past I've had problems with darker colours fading quite significantly after the first wash but this one didn't seem to lose any colour and just a small amount of shine after a wash and line dry so I have high hopes for this dress remaining in my wardrobe for many years.