tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-59160381885716907262024-03-14T20:52:14.693+11:00lower your presser footKristy Chanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07385704380789244157noreply@blogger.comBlogger572125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5916038188571690726.post-20920597240536755352021-10-27T22:01:00.002+11:002021-10-27T22:01:36.883+11:00Keeping it simple<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tuJIuUzn760/YXkrGfHogvI/AAAAAAAALmQ/bqHccSda3REiG4v9qMwDEDt57gwvQeWFQCLcBGAsYHQ/s686/plaid%2Bdress%2Bfront%2B2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="686" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tuJIuUzn760/YXkrGfHogvI/AAAAAAAALmQ/bqHccSda3REiG4v9qMwDEDt57gwvQeWFQCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/plaid%2Bdress%2Bfront%2B2.jpg" title="plaid summer dress Burda 07/2015 #115 www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><p><br /></p>I have had this piece of multi-coloured plaid cotton sateen out on my cutting table for several days trying to decide what to make from it. It was an on-line purchase, so I didn't really see that it had an unbalanced plaid until I received the fabric and spread it out - had I realised this I would have bought more fabric because it would have made things far easier! I tried so many combinations of different dresses, shirts and skirts to get that dominant blue line equally balanced on both sides, and then I tried a simple shape but on the bias which also didn't work due to lack of fabric.<p></p><p><br /></p><p>So in the end I decided to keep the pattern simple, and just make another dress with a plain bodice with a gathered skirt - less need for pattern matching that way. This is Burda 07/2015 #115, which I made just a few weeks ago from another cotton sateen. It's a simple pattern and easy to wear, so is a winner in my books.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IzYX8QPpX4o/YXkrUE9ninI/AAAAAAAALmU/UHCM-L43eoEwLYarGELqqSRzhIPhlkMgQCLcBGAsYHQ/s400/burda%2B07%2B2015%2B%2523115.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="243" data-original-width="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IzYX8QPpX4o/YXkrUE9ninI/AAAAAAAALmU/UHCM-L43eoEwLYarGELqqSRzhIPhlkMgQCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/burda%2B07%2B2015%2B%2523115.jpg" title="summer dress Burda 07/2015 #115 www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><p>I was really disappointed in the quality of this fabric. This cotton sateen from Nerida Hansen is quite thin and more like cotton lawn or poplin to me, which actually is quite perfect for this style of dress. I've since discovered that the term 'sateen' refers to the weave and shine, and not the fabric weight, it's just that cotton sateen I've purchased from other stores are quite thick and stretchy that can be used for tailored pants and jackets etc which this fabric definitely could not. </p><p><br /></p><p>However what I most disappointed about was that this fabric was printed quite off grain which made it even more difficult to pattern match. At first I thought it might just be that the tight weave at the selvage might be causing the stripes to skew, because it was mainly at the edges that the stripes didn't line up. So I clipped the seams and tried to stream and stretch it straight which didn't really help.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lbVidUb5CwU/YXkuaBvdQ8I/AAAAAAAALms/srpuiafWiCkLqEwKeHbTtPYnLSx2lMsKwCLcBGAsYHQ/s565/plaid%2Bfabric.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="424" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lbVidUb5CwU/YXkuaBvdQ8I/AAAAAAAALms/srpuiafWiCkLqEwKeHbTtPYnLSx2lMsKwCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/plaid%2Bfabric.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9LUoSPNS2To/YXkuaJWwx1I/AAAAAAAALmo/dZTwInkrcuU6RkJOx4N7NRrh3IRbO6_SQCLcBGAsYHQ/s565/plaid%2Bfabric%2B2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="405" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9LUoSPNS2To/YXkuaJWwx1I/AAAAAAAALmo/dZTwInkrcuU6RkJOx4N7NRrh3IRbO6_SQCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/plaid%2Bfabric%2B2.jpg" /></a></div><div><br /></div>In the end I cut the fabrics out single layer and ignored the grain lines, instead preferring to have the stripes lined up. A massive sewing crime I know, but the skirt and bodice seems to sit well enough and getting those stripes horizontal was more important to me.<div><br /><div>Luckily this pattern doesn't have a centre back seam, so no pattern matching was required there, and for the skirt I used the full 150cm width so there's only one side seam which again reduces the need for pattern matching.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uiTPD7Goc7Q/YXkvPwRoJDI/AAAAAAAALm4/b4aP--NSAaoCR79wsOBRpLM0FGMxQ3YewCLcBGAsYHQ/s848/plaid%2Bdress%2Bback.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="848" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uiTPD7Goc7Q/YXkvPwRoJDI/AAAAAAAALm4/b4aP--NSAaoCR79wsOBRpLM0FGMxQ3YewCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/plaid%2Bdress%2Bback.jpg" title="plaid summer dress Burda 07/2015 #115 www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><div>I probably should have cut out the fabric a bit more carefully so that the dark blue stripe is at my waistline and the dark green vertical stripe at the centre front continued through the skirt but now I'm probably overthinking it all. If this was a RTW dress I probably wouldn't be this picky at all! </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4XsNMdTSBHE/YXkvnuzJJ6I/AAAAAAAALnA/UXBrHteQUgc80S9JAvQe2vD5NlCLxZLzQCLcBGAsYHQ/s714/plaid%2Bdress%2Bfront%2B3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="714" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4XsNMdTSBHE/YXkvnuzJJ6I/AAAAAAAALnA/UXBrHteQUgc80S9JAvQe2vD5NlCLxZLzQCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/plaid%2Bdress%2Bfront%2B3.jpg" title="plaid summer dress Burda 07/2015 #115 www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><div><br /></div>Anyway, after all that whinging I actually like this dress. It's light and simple to wear since it literally just slips on over my head with no zippers, buttons etc and the gathered skirt means it's not too tight or restrictive which is important after all these months of wearing stretchy sweat pants! And while the fabric quality is annoying, especially since this isn't the cheapest of fabrics, it is going to help me reduce my fabric purchases in future because I don't think I'll purchase any more fabric from this seller. So there is a silver lining in almost everything!<div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jImHzelcXHE/YXkwijD_vXI/AAAAAAAALnI/qCPT6XnEOFMKild3cGsR823SGl-MIUY_gCLcBGAsYHQ/s848/plaid%2Bdress%2Bfront.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="848" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jImHzelcXHE/YXkwijD_vXI/AAAAAAAALnI/qCPT6XnEOFMKild3cGsR823SGl-MIUY_gCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/plaid%2Bdress%2Bfront.jpg" title="plaid summer dress Burda 07/2015 #115 www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><div><br /><div><br /></div><div><br /><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><br /><p><br /></p></div></div></div></div>Kristy Chanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07385704380789244157noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5916038188571690726.post-55279915139446181812021-10-18T22:08:00.000+11:002021-10-18T22:08:00.195+11:00Dressing like my home decor<p>Earlier this year I bought some vibrant home dec fabric by <a href="https://www.spotlightstores.com/kirsten-katz" target="_blank">Kirsten Katz</a> from Spotlight with the intention of making some new cushion covers for my lounge. But the longer the fabric sat on my cutting table the more I wanted to make something wearable from it instead. Which is what I did!</p><p><br /></p><p>The fabric is a thick, non-stretch cotton so I couldn't make anything that needed any drape or stretch. My favourite pleated a-line skirt is the perfect shape for this fabric.</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-250XP2y6dn0/YW1RJIRSK0I/AAAAAAAALk0/AUJa1-vXN980-PlzXbVPz5mRXyRwYEHvACLcBGAsYHQ/s624/floral%2Bskirt%2Bfront%2B2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="woman posing in a bright floral skirt" border="0" data-original-height="624" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-250XP2y6dn0/YW1RJIRSK0I/AAAAAAAALk0/AUJa1-vXN980-PlzXbVPz5mRXyRwYEHvACLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/floral%2Bskirt%2Bfront%2B2.jpg" title="floral pleated skirt Burda Easy www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Q51QS8se-HE/YW1TBwQh0MI/AAAAAAAALlg/yvEiVTHQV_cMDiLEiIfRQD-b_IbYHbrjgCLcBGAsYHQ/s565/floral%2Bskirt%2Bfront%2B5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="482" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Q51QS8se-HE/YW1TBwQh0MI/AAAAAAAALlg/yvEiVTHQV_cMDiLEiIfRQD-b_IbYHbrjgCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/floral%2Bskirt%2Bfront%2B5.jpg" title="floral pleated skirt Burda Easy www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><p>The pattern is from a 2014 Burda Easy magazine that I picked up at a Sydney Spoolettes fabric swap day and I've now made several times. It is really easy to make, it has pockets, it is pleated to give space for movement but isn't too full so there's no danger of flashing anyone on a windy day - all in all, a great pattern.</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zW4Y6ymo0p4/YW1U_WS66wI/AAAAAAAALlw/rgn3viVEicQe1RgkZoQgmGDztTlx3TPogCLcBGAsYHQ/s1265/burda%2Beasy%2B2014%2Bcover.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1265" data-original-width="1000" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zW4Y6ymo0p4/YW1U_WS66wI/AAAAAAAALlw/rgn3viVEicQe1RgkZoQgmGDztTlx3TPogCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/burda%2Beasy%2B2014%2Bcover.jpg" width="253" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7Mbdw5BdCoI/YW1U_fcNjJI/AAAAAAAALls/iJZ0NHPnhxMiPU2aB1umG-VZXuh5VU8iwCLcBGAsYHQ/s949/burda%2Beasy%2B2014%2Bskirt.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="693" data-original-width="949" height="234" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7Mbdw5BdCoI/YW1U_fcNjJI/AAAAAAAALls/iJZ0NHPnhxMiPU2aB1umG-VZXuh5VU8iwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/burda%2Beasy%2B2014%2Bskirt.png" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p>The back view is cut on the fold which means there's no pesky pattern matching required which was handy for a bold print like this.</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qJH1NuY_8Zs/YW1RRI1rr-I/AAAAAAAALk4/ZuGobGejDkcPr6eMFrKIjAmaVCIlyhcLgCLcBGAsYHQ/s602/floral%2Bskirt%2Bback.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="602" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qJH1NuY_8Zs/YW1RRI1rr-I/AAAAAAAALk4/ZuGobGejDkcPr6eMFrKIjAmaVCIlyhcLgCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/floral%2Bskirt%2Bback.jpg" title="floral pleated skirt Burda Easy www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><p>The front has a long row of buttons which frankly is the most time consuming part of making this skirt! All those buttons and buttonholes are a bit fiddly and get a bit lost in a busy print like this, but in a plain fabric it would be a nice look.</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Z1CD60shPN8/YW1RlsuhM8I/AAAAAAAALlE/Rj2LPxJc_LU0rYZKGZowAffvOyyJxgNRgCLcBGAsYHQ/s614/floral%2Bskirt%2Bfabric.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="614" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Z1CD60shPN8/YW1RlsuhM8I/AAAAAAAALlE/Rj2LPxJc_LU0rYZKGZowAffvOyyJxgNRgCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/floral%2Bskirt%2Bfabric.jpg" title="floral pleated skirt Burda Easy www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><p>And the best part is I did have some fabric left over to make some cushion covers, because I made the backs of the cushions from plain black cotton. These are just simple square and rectangle shapes, and I used zippers from the stash so another equally quick and simple project.</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wgD-OZu9VYw/YW1SZeH7F6I/AAAAAAAALlM/g8_yRIhFY8A9-9jUbSjU4WsqON7E5i7mgCLcBGAsYHQ/s565/floral%2Bcushions%2Bback.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="417" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wgD-OZu9VYw/YW1SZeH7F6I/AAAAAAAALlM/g8_yRIhFY8A9-9jUbSjU4WsqON7E5i7mgCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/floral%2Bcushions%2Bback.jpg" title="floral pleated skirt Burda Easy www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-u9eFutr4Pbk/YW1SZfFL6uI/AAAAAAAALlQ/yB58vgiDxZoUfcApcGbu2iqexKCNs0PBQCLcBGAsYHQ/s565/floral%2Bcushions%2Bfront.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="323" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-u9eFutr4Pbk/YW1SZfFL6uI/AAAAAAAALlQ/yB58vgiDxZoUfcApcGbu2iqexKCNs0PBQCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/floral%2Bcushions%2Bfront.jpg" title="floral pleated skirt Burda Easy www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><p>There's nothing better than matching your home decor is there? 😂</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-l49F25hrqe4/YW1S5lG-EQI/AAAAAAAALlc/XBd8c586uZI5eJ7HdvZ1_M_Z-HlcaFwtgCLcBGAsYHQ/s848/floral%2Bskirt%2Blounge.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="848" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-l49F25hrqe4/YW1S5lG-EQI/AAAAAAAALlc/XBd8c586uZI5eJ7HdvZ1_M_Z-HlcaFwtgCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/floral%2Bskirt%2Blounge.jpg" title="floral pleated skirt Burda Easy www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p> </p><p><br /></p>Kristy Chanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07385704380789244157noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5916038188571690726.post-85921307643498688552021-10-03T21:49:00.001+11:002021-10-03T21:49:31.768+11:00McCalls 8030: Liberty shirt dress<p>A shirt dress is fast becoming my favourite style of dress in these weird 'stay at home business casual' kind of times. I made Simplicity 8014 four times last year (see the round up <a href="http://loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com/2021/01/things-sewn-in-2020-dresses.html" target="_blank">here</a>) but this time I thought I'd try a new pattern just to mix things up. And why not use beautiful and expensive Liberty on an untested fabric right!? Sometimes my cavalier attitude appals me, but hey it's only fabric.....</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kfMe58HHO-Q/YVmEPx6Xf8I/AAAAAAAALjg/THiLlRDUjZ8Ee3iZUYSiHbmHAmloy0iDgCLcBGAsYHQ/s624/mccalls%2Bliberty%2Bdress%2Bfront%2B3.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="624" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kfMe58HHO-Q/YVmEPx6Xf8I/AAAAAAAALjg/THiLlRDUjZ8Ee3iZUYSiHbmHAmloy0iDgCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/mccalls%2Bliberty%2Bdress%2Bfront%2B3.JPG" title="McCalls 8030 shirt dress in Liberty fabric www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><p>This dress is <a href="https://somethingdelightful.com/m8030" target="_blank">McCalls 8030</a>, one of the new trendy instagram age patterns that has its own name - 'Josie'. It's a loosefitting dress, hence it comes in the s-m-l-xl range instead of actual sizes.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xcVjX20Wc9A/YVmFAWohBoI/AAAAAAAALjo/VSWSIOJtwq88ZNXpZJWuYu1fVcFM42ZQACLcBGAsYHQ/s565/mccalls%2B8030%2Bpattern.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="565" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xcVjX20Wc9A/YVmFAWohBoI/AAAAAAAALjo/VSWSIOJtwq88ZNXpZJWuYu1fVcFM42ZQACLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/mccalls%2B8030%2Bpattern.jpg" title="McCalls 8030" /></a></div><p>I've seen some really great dresses made from this pattern, with some clever sewers doing interesting things with stripes and colour blocking. But I had some Liberty cotton bought earlier this year (not during their recent 40% off sale unfortunately) that I was keen to use for a casual summer dress, so I elected just to line up the pattern instead which frankly made the yoke pointless. Afterwards I realised I should have put some navy piping along that seam line to make it stand out, but as a consolation I did match up the pattern fairly well.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-y5T-ebtTb34/YVmF8f_okWI/AAAAAAAALjw/DyjHCs9iMrM9VCp_nZzzqeoPgIg_zpbggCLcBGAsYHQ/s565/mccalls%2Bliberty%2Bdress%2Bfabric.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="460" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-y5T-ebtTb34/YVmF8f_okWI/AAAAAAAALjw/DyjHCs9iMrM9VCp_nZzzqeoPgIg_zpbggCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/mccalls%2Bliberty%2Bdress%2Bfabric.JPG" title="McCalls 8030 shirt dress in Liberty fabric www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><p>Liberty cotton can be very crisp when it's new, but over time it will soften up and that will probably help this dress wear a little better than it does now. Right now though I'm not loving it. Without the belt it's really shapeless and unflattering, but when worn with the belt it needs constant tugging down every time I lift my arms.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tSwxBUAhYpY/YVmGhk58YsI/AAAAAAAALj4/Ix3eGj8ESWAm7zE97-rc56G4yO-u58IHACLcBGAsYHQ/s584/mccalls%2Bliberty%2Bdress%2Bfront%2B1.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="584" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tSwxBUAhYpY/YVmGhk58YsI/AAAAAAAALj4/Ix3eGj8ESWAm7zE97-rc56G4yO-u58IHACLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/mccalls%2Bliberty%2Bdress%2Bfront%2B1.JPG" title="McCalls 8030 shirt dress in Liberty fabric www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><p>Not having separate sleeves to set in makes this a really quick sew, but those cut on sleeves are the culprit for the poor fit: they are open to quite low on the body (just above my waist). And in this crisp cotton fabric they really stand out from my arms.</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JA8Pj_jWZTw/YVmGv_qjt-I/AAAAAAAALj8/hqfVfWh9hXUurQXaeskdbFPToCFm4rhkwCLcBGAsYHQ/s565/mccalls%2Bliberty%2Bdress%2Bfront%2B4.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="524" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JA8Pj_jWZTw/YVmGv_qjt-I/AAAAAAAALj8/hqfVfWh9hXUurQXaeskdbFPToCFm4rhkwCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/mccalls%2Bliberty%2Bdress%2Bfront%2B4.JPG" title="McCalls 8030 shirt dress in Liberty fabric www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YvnJGlptlfE/YVmHWYVH3sI/AAAAAAAALkI/ylaIqZzkI5AUKz_tY-h4UaCoPhQLRwTmgCLcBGAsYHQ/s586/mccalls%2Bliberty%2Bdress%2Bfront%2B2.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="586" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YvnJGlptlfE/YVmHWYVH3sI/AAAAAAAALkI/ylaIqZzkI5AUKz_tY-h4UaCoPhQLRwTmgCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/mccalls%2Bliberty%2Bdress%2Bfront%2B2.JPG" title="McCalls 8030 shirt dress in Liberty fabric www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>So if you're contemplating this pattern I'd recommend a drapey fabric or a stripey fabric to make the most of the pattern lines. It is a really quick and simple project to make, so perfect for beginners or those short of time. I'll still wear this lots over the upcoming Australian summer since I'll be spending the rest of the year working from home and the roominess of this makes it almost like wearing a nightdress but business appropriate! But I think I'll go back to my beloved Simplicity 8014 for any future shirt dresses.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GNINcsQauB8/YVmHWQiNw4I/AAAAAAAALkM/DjI6i4c-d-YwK8J1jFcqOHqKE96OiFTRACLcBGAsYHQ/s586/mccalls%2Bliberty%2Bdress%2Bfront%2B5.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="586" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GNINcsQauB8/YVmHWQiNw4I/AAAAAAAALkM/DjI6i4c-d-YwK8J1jFcqOHqKE96OiFTRACLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/mccalls%2Bliberty%2Bdress%2Bfront%2B5.JPG" title="McCalls 8030 shirt dress in Liberty fabric www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><p> </p>Kristy Chanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07385704380789244157noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5916038188571690726.post-13856658044078949252021-09-18T20:11:00.000+10:002021-09-18T20:11:33.515+10:00In a jiffy: Simplicity 8682 dress<p>I'm very sceptical when it comes to pattern envelopes that just have an illustration and not an actual photograph of a model. Vintage patterns are notorious for the illustration looking completely different to how the project turns out because no-one these days has those teeny tiny waists and pointy busts.</p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-D01a6nhhZFY/YUWzfVMNYvI/AAAAAAAALic/rdil5huGp18vyU4QfV1C_hNLk7SmaADggCLcBGAsYHQ/s726/pink%2Bpolka%2Bdot%2Bdress%2Bfront%2B3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="a white lady posing in a pink and white polka dot dress next to plants in white pots" border="0" data-original-height="726" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-D01a6nhhZFY/YUWzfVMNYvI/AAAAAAAALic/rdil5huGp18vyU4QfV1C_hNLk7SmaADggCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/pink%2Bpolka%2Bdot%2Bdress%2Bfront%2B3.jpg" title="Simplicity 8682 pink polka dot shift dress www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><p>This dress however lives up to its promise - it did only take a jiffy to make and it turned out pretty much exactly like the pattern cover. This is Simplicity 8682 from 1970:</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U3VR0fGciz0/YUWzm03-b0I/AAAAAAAALig/QJBiAIougoARgzKx4hDU6Kokt_p4lt_bQCLcBGAsYHQ/s565/pink%2Bpolka%2Bdot%2Bdress%2Bpattern.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="A photograph of a vintage sewing pattern on pink polka dot fabric" border="0" data-original-height="430" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U3VR0fGciz0/YUWzm03-b0I/AAAAAAAALig/QJBiAIougoARgzKx4hDU6Kokt_p4lt_bQCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/pink%2Bpolka%2Bdot%2Bdress%2Bpattern.jpg" title="Simplicity 8682 pink polka dot shift dress www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><div><br /></div>I've made this before back in <a href="http://loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com/2018/01/vintage-simplicity-8682-summer-dress-in.html" target="_blank">2018 </a>which I still wear so I knew this would fit with just minimal fitting adjustments - I only had to add a few centimetres to the side seams below the waist dart. I did lower scoop the neckline at the front by a few more centimetres because the jewel neckline on this dress is really high. Even with dropping the seam line by another 2.5cm is still looks very high like the design but no longer feels like it is choking me.<div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6gOxLdZvyr4/YUW1KYtbT1I/AAAAAAAALis/ZMVfjH0KvFM-xxJwKjyaA2YeMYN1tFOSQCLcBGAsYHQ/s565/pink%2Bpolka%2Bdot%2Bdress%2Bneckline.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="a photograph of the inside neckline of a dress" border="0" data-original-height="379" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6gOxLdZvyr4/YUW1KYtbT1I/AAAAAAAALis/ZMVfjH0KvFM-xxJwKjyaA2YeMYN1tFOSQCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/pink%2Bpolka%2Bdot%2Bdress%2Bneckline.jpg" title="Simplicity 8682 pink polka dot shift dress www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><div>Those long French darts on the front view give a really nice shape to the dress without making it too fitted or tight. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--fmGvzEX8CI/YUW13vJZDYI/AAAAAAAALi0/WLkttirn4NQBKY46wsftC1IsgPDZnmjRwCLcBGAsYHQ/s711/pink%2Bpolka%2Bdot%2Bdress%2Bfront%2B2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="a photograph of a white woman posing in a pink polka dress beside some plants in white pots" border="0" data-original-height="711" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--fmGvzEX8CI/YUW13vJZDYI/AAAAAAAALi0/WLkttirn4NQBKY46wsftC1IsgPDZnmjRwCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/pink%2Bpolka%2Bdot%2Bdress%2Bfront%2B2.jpg" title="Simplicity 8682 pink polka dot shift dress www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><div>The back view just has vertical darts which normally isn't enough to stop the fabric pooling in my lower back. I usually prefer a dress with a waist seam for better fitting results, but this dress actually fits me quite well in the back. There are darts in the shoulder seam which give it that rounded shape. I really need to improve my posture looking at this photo - no wonder the neckline at the front of the dress felt like it was choking me!</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Xj3Y36tXkeA/YUW2NZsCrgI/AAAAAAAALi8/mYNEgwiQPdwW090dVLqZoX_FSijrjvhhwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/pink%2Bpolka%2Bdot%2Bdress%2Bback.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="a woman posing in a pink polka dot dress with her back towards the camera" border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Xj3Y36tXkeA/YUW2NZsCrgI/AAAAAAAALi8/mYNEgwiQPdwW090dVLqZoX_FSijrjvhhwCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/pink%2Bpolka%2Bdot%2Bdress%2Bback.jpg" title="Simplicity 8682 pink polka dot shift dress www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><div>The fabric I've used is a cotton duck from Spotlight in pink and white polka dots - I bought this back in 2019 so I was quite glad to finally get around to sewing with it. The fabric was quite stiff at first, but softened up a lot after a wash and a line dry, but isn't clingy or drapey so the dress retains its a-line shape.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oaLapB9680k/YUW3F235dtI/AAAAAAAALjE/S6Zpah71xIEVvYQlzhTCZT-6PeQQg0LaACLcBGAsYHQ/s646/pink%2Bpolka%2Bdot%2Bdress%2Bfront%2B1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="a woman posing in a pink polka dot dress" border="0" data-original-height="646" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oaLapB9680k/YUW3F235dtI/AAAAAAAALjE/S6Zpah71xIEVvYQlzhTCZT-6PeQQg0LaACLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/pink%2Bpolka%2Bdot%2Bdress%2Bfront%2B1.jpg" title="Simplicity 8682 pink polka dot shift dress www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><div>So there you have it - a dress that lives up to its simple promise of being made in a jiffy. It's a good dress to recommend to a beginner sewer or someone just getting into sewing vintage patterns - there are quite a few copies available for sale on Etsy and by other vintage pattern sellers.</div><div><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p></div>Kristy Chanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07385704380789244157noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5916038188571690726.post-73535242014221117922021-09-11T19:26:00.002+10:002021-09-11T19:26:50.045+10:00Suns out, dresses are on: Burda 07/2015 #115<p>It's only the beginning of spring here in Sydney, yet we hit 30 degrees (84F) here today - that doesn't bode well for when summer actually rolls around. Despite my love for sewing summer dresses I do not like the heat at all, but clearly I'm living in the wrong country!</p><p><br /></p><p>After the last failure of a dress I decided to make a super simple dress that I've made before and I knew would fit with minimal effort. The real star in this project is the fabric - a bold graphic print cotton sateen from <a href="https://neridahansen.com.au/" target="_blank">Nerida Hansen Fabrics</a>. I'm not too impressed with the fabric though - it's rather thin and more like a cotton poplin or lawn than a sateen and it lost the sheen after the very first wash and the navy blue parts of the fabric look a bit worn out already. It works fine for this casual dress, but previous fabric I've bought from Nerida Hansen have been better quality than this, so it's a bit disappointing and I hope it's just this batch.</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_NsYmyETX60/YTxscS0OQYI/AAAAAAAALgs/Z0pttaswGygpb3Tq0Jx7-Dxbqfv7VnT2gCLcBGAsYHQ/s609/burda%2B07%2B2015%2B115%2Bdress%2Bfront%2B5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="A picture of a lady posing next to a pool in a dress with a bold graphic print" border="0" data-original-height="609" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_NsYmyETX60/YTxscS0OQYI/AAAAAAAALgs/Z0pttaswGygpb3Tq0Jx7-Dxbqfv7VnT2gCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/burda%2B07%2B2015%2B115%2Bdress%2Bfront%2B5.jpg" title="Graphic print summer dress Burda 07/2015 #115 www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><p>The pattern is <a href="https://www.burdastyle.com/cotton-dress-115-07-15.html" target="_blank">Burda 07/2015 #115</a>, which I made back in <a href="http://loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com/2015/07/burda-of-month-072015-115-sometimes-you.html" target="_blank">2015 </a>when I was doing my Burda of the month challenge. I still wear that dress, so I knew this one would work out fine.</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-veg6QwIb7zk/YTx1p_CzdOI/AAAAAAAALh0/ZTF01WrpBa8rPEU72lBfkrYQSQ2liK8zACLcBGAsYHQ/s400/burda%2B07%2B2015%2B%2523115.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="a sewing pattern cover of a dress" border="0" data-original-height="243" data-original-width="400" height="389" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-veg6QwIb7zk/YTx1p_CzdOI/AAAAAAAALh0/ZTF01WrpBa8rPEU72lBfkrYQSQ2liK8zACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h389/burda%2B07%2B2015%2B%2523115.jpg" title="Graphic print summer dress Burda 07/2015 #115 www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p>There's not much to say about this dress - it has a boat neckline with a facing, cap sleeves, a gathered skirt with elastic waist and a simple bodice with a bust dart. I picked this pattern not only because it is simple, but because I didn't want too many seam lines to avoid breaking up that large scale print. I deliberately placed the waistline at the dark stripe to avoid the stitching being too obvious.</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yWhEgWpcTe8/YTxs-OEimkI/AAAAAAAALhE/gxhxEMEqEocJ2gfFiw7oVTsI5bAs_FUjACLcBGAsYHQ/s565/burda%2B07%2B2015%2B115%2Bdress%2Bfront%2B4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="a white lady posing beside a pool in a graphic blue and orange print dress" border="0" data-original-height="548" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yWhEgWpcTe8/YTxs-OEimkI/AAAAAAAALhE/gxhxEMEqEocJ2gfFiw7oVTsI5bAs_FUjACLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/burda%2B07%2B2015%2B115%2Bdress%2Bfront%2B4.jpg" title="Graphic print summer dress Burda 07/2015 #115 www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>The back is similar to the front, just without the bust dart.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"> </span></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-j01XISR7O78/YTxthbI6Z8I/AAAAAAAALhk/0JxAXs18wmAxuEURS15gYuDw2AmyVODZwCLcBGAsYHQ/s652/burda%2B07%2B2015%2B115%2Bdress%2Bfront%2B2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="a photo showing the back of a woman standing next to a pool in a blue and orange print dress" border="0" data-original-height="652" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-j01XISR7O78/YTxthbI6Z8I/AAAAAAAALhk/0JxAXs18wmAxuEURS15gYuDw2AmyVODZwCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/burda%2B07%2B2015%2B115%2Bdress%2Bfront%2B2.jpg" title="Graphic print summer dress Burda 07/2015 #115 www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><div>And it has the all important pockets in the side seams. I'm not a fan of pockets in fitted dress because it adds bulk and they usually gape open, but in gathered skirts like this they are just right.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-M3M0DcLjfPM/YTxtvsRC3xI/AAAAAAAALho/D-6kn00tJCAYSSgCRi4fEzpMBYCBVt9xQCLcBGAsYHQ/s633/burda%2B07%2B2015%2B115%2Bdress%2Bfront%2B1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="a white lady posing next to a pool in a blue and orange print dress" border="0" data-original-height="633" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-M3M0DcLjfPM/YTxtvsRC3xI/AAAAAAAALho/D-6kn00tJCAYSSgCRi4fEzpMBYCBVt9xQCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/burda%2B07%2B2015%2B115%2Bdress%2Bfront%2B1.jpg" title="Graphic print summer dress Burda 07/2015 #115 www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><div>So all in all a great project - perfect match of fabric and pattern. I can see this dress getting a lot of wear this coming summer.</div>Kristy Chanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07385704380789244157noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5916038188571690726.post-76229431153092296082021-09-09T22:47:00.001+10:002021-09-09T22:47:07.675+10:00For the love of velvet<p>Earlier in this never ending lockdown I needed to buy some buttons, and I discovered that Spotlight has a flat rate shipping fee of $13 no matter how much you spend. So instead of spending more on shipping than the actual buttons, I decided to fill up my order with some patterns and fabrics which handily were on sale. I ended up spending way more than the cost of the buttons and shipping, but that's sewing logic for you! </p><p><br /></p><p>Plus I bought two beautifully soft velvet fabrics - one a teal crinkle velvet and the other an olive green quilted velvet. I've only sewn with velvet once before many years ago so I wasn't sure what to expect, but these were easy to sew and all three projects turned out great.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DgA2FYoaB6Q/YToAdReah4I/AAAAAAAALgk/T0KFBLSycEs5wAXFIc3SChRP1QzRnAIxgCLcBGAsYHQ/s565/velvet%2Bcollage.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="283" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DgA2FYoaB6Q/YToAdReah4I/AAAAAAAALgk/T0KFBLSycEs5wAXFIc3SChRP1QzRnAIxgCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/velvet%2Bcollage.jpg" title="velvet projects www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com.au" /></a></div><p>The crinkle velvet I turned into a super simple three quarter circle skirt cut to a midi length. I did use an old 1980s pattern for this skirt, but there are loads on online circle skirt calculators if you can be bothered doing the maths and marking. </p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-F30lPLODZTA/YTn7anI-yNI/AAAAAAAALfI/jHRSM8sWd_0oPWZdM5IFqgwobut-aBgjwCLcBGAsYHQ/s618/teal%2Bvelvet%2Bskirt%2Bfront.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="618" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-F30lPLODZTA/YTn7anI-yNI/AAAAAAAALfI/jHRSM8sWd_0oPWZdM5IFqgwobut-aBgjwCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/teal%2Bvelvet%2Bskirt%2Bfront.jpg" title="velvet midi skirt projects www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com.au" /></a></div><br /><p>For the waistband I used a lovely patterned elastic picked up from Pitt Trading - the two go together fabulously and it's a really quick way to do a waistband! I just used my coverstitch machine to topstitch the elastic to the skirt so that it would stretch without popping a seam.</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YbONdMupGUk/YTn7lAiSREI/AAAAAAAALfM/ocxRM4mpy6oZuCq31ODfAvGSI3DcMD24ACLcBGAsYHQ/s565/teal%2Bvelvet%2Bskirt%2Bwaistband.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="303" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YbONdMupGUk/YTn7lAiSREI/AAAAAAAALfM/ocxRM4mpy6oZuCq31ODfAvGSI3DcMD24ACLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/teal%2Bvelvet%2Bskirt%2Bwaistband.jpg" title="velvet projects www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com.au" /></a></div><br /><p>I used the rolled hem function on my overlocker to finish the hem - doing it this way again was far quicker than doing a traditional turned up hem but it also gave a wavy lettuce edge effect which suits the look really well.</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mnLsQFe2-CY/YTn78Rlu9-I/AAAAAAAALfU/MlDRpR5Jkx4Om24YJ9ve_f9a0frhUKyhgCLcBGAsYHQ/s565/teal%2Bvelvet%2Bskirt%2Bhem.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="561" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mnLsQFe2-CY/YTn78Rlu9-I/AAAAAAAALfU/MlDRpR5Jkx4Om24YJ9ve_f9a0frhUKyhgCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/teal%2Bvelvet%2Bskirt%2Bhem.jpg" /></a></div><br /><p>From the olive green quilted velvet I managed to make two projects - a bomber jacket and a vest, so that makes it a total bargain. I don't plan on wearing them together, but I have been wearing them individually alot lately - it really elevates my dog walking outfits!!</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZBXNJ98xxHc/YTn8j6dRtOI/AAAAAAAALfc/CA2e0IucfisS6LNzFFVZuu6WCfgpvYbAgCLcBGAsYHQ/s595/green%2Bvelvet%2Bbomber%2Bjacket%2B%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="595" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZBXNJ98xxHc/YTn8j6dRtOI/AAAAAAAALfc/CA2e0IucfisS6LNzFFVZuu6WCfgpvYbAgCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/green%2Bvelvet%2Bbomber%2Bjacket%2B%25282%2529.jpg" /></a></div><br /><p>The jacket pattern is from a 2014 Burda Easy magazine which I've made twice before, and apart from the welt pockets (which are tricky) it is indeed a quick and easy sew. I used some black ponte that was in my stash for the cuffs and collar, and fully lined it with some black silk that was from deep in my stash. I also happened to have a black separating zipper in the stash so all the elements came together for a quick and satisfying sew.</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qBQwqu0cCRY/YTn891lvUtI/AAAAAAAALfk/6CFTxkFrdQAX-qxeEsLDWaoVopZJFE1egCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/green%2Bvelvet%2Bbomber%2Bjacket%2Bcollar.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1365" data-original-width="2048" height="267" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qBQwqu0cCRY/YTn891lvUtI/AAAAAAAALfk/6CFTxkFrdQAX-qxeEsLDWaoVopZJFE1egCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h267/green%2Bvelvet%2Bbomber%2Bjacket%2Bcollar.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YwFnUxlFumg/YTn890FCQ_I/AAAAAAAALfo/2di_2YpI7H0D_da-A6FgvDQVC_HW9kVjwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/green%2Bvelvet%2Bbomber%2Bjacket%2Bpocket.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1365" data-original-width="2048" height="266" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YwFnUxlFumg/YTn890FCQ_I/AAAAAAAALfo/2di_2YpI7H0D_da-A6FgvDQVC_HW9kVjwCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h266/green%2Bvelvet%2Bbomber%2Bjacket%2Bpocket.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p>For the vest I used Simplicity 1499 which is a great pattern with a couple of variations. It's only been in recent years that I started wearing vests at all, but I see a few more of these in my future.</p><p><br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ylwly62LPVE/YTn--hUwe1I/AAAAAAAALgc/Ahps9bLVNHwzEiHb1UAeaHuGoBC0EZAKQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1505/20210725_214629.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1505" data-original-width="1505" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ylwly62LPVE/YTn--hUwe1I/AAAAAAAALgc/Ahps9bLVNHwzEiHb1UAeaHuGoBC0EZAKQCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h400/20210725_214629.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /> I made a few adjustments by fully lining the vest instead of using binding around the edges because frankly I find sewing on binding neatly and evenly a really fiddly and annoying task. I also used some bronze snaps because I didn't have another separating zip in the stash, and the colour of the bronze looks great against the green.<p></p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2ixPfSIfUu8/YTn-MjWF4RI/AAAAAAAALgU/7L8VhY-i8MYcv2QIagpS0cvaOw608S-zgCLcBGAsYHQ/s565/green%2Bvelvet%2Bvest%2B%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="474" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2ixPfSIfUu8/YTn-MjWF4RI/AAAAAAAALgU/7L8VhY-i8MYcv2QIagpS0cvaOw608S-zgCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/green%2Bvelvet%2Bvest%2B%25281%2529.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-y5_pSLvPKeI/YTn9tDHDylI/AAAAAAAALf0/Eo6QGJzNIaI_2_rh_7MVRw7X82p75W7IQCLcBGAsYHQ/s565/green%2Bve.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /><img border="0" data-original-height="508" data-original-width="565" height="288" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-y5_pSLvPKeI/YTn9tDHDylI/AAAAAAAALf0/Eo6QGJzNIaI_2_rh_7MVRw7X82p75W7IQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/green%2Bve.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>I had to use some of that black ponte from my stash for the side back panels because I didn't quite have enough velvet fabric, but I think that just adds a bit of a sporty look to it.</div><div><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LF143U7IF0I/YTn9tYdcxxI/AAAAAAAALf8/H_kGGuzmTaUEWsnPx9mqBHbZ3PKr_IZngCLcBGAsYHQ/s565/green%2Bvelvet%2Bvest%2B%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="526" data-original-width="565" height="596" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LF143U7IF0I/YTn9tYdcxxI/AAAAAAAALf8/H_kGGuzmTaUEWsnPx9mqBHbZ3PKr_IZngCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h596/green%2Bvelvet%2Bvest%2B%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>And the best part is that it has quite big pockets inset in the princess seam which I used the velvet for both the pocket bag and lining which makes it bulge out as you can see in the photo below, but it sure is nice sliding your hands into a velvet cocoon on a cold day. </div><div><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NCQytXhkt5k/YTn9t2Cg2II/AAAAAAAALgA/PE0z_mNjBdM0do_q6ID0hHN7DWHL9mE9QCLcBGAsYHQ/s565/green%2Bvelvet%2Bvest%2B%25283%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="495" data-original-width="565" height="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NCQytXhkt5k/YTn9t2Cg2II/AAAAAAAALgA/PE0z_mNjBdM0do_q6ID0hHN7DWHL9mE9QCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h560/green%2Bvelvet%2Bvest%2B%25283%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>To be honest, I haven't worn the velvet skirt yet - not because I don't like it but because I've had nowhere special enough to wear it. Now the weather is warming up it will need to wait until next year. But the jacket and vest have been worn lots in the last few weeks so it was a good buy even though technically I'm trying to sew down my stash and not buy new fabric....</p>Kristy Chanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07385704380789244157noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5916038188571690726.post-21628049700704745272021-09-05T22:21:00.000+10:002021-09-05T22:21:19.027+10:00A sewing miss: Vogue 8685<p>You can't win 'em all. A wadder every now and then is inevitable, especially if you don't make a fitting toile! This dress definitely falls within the category of a not so great outcome, but hey it's only fabric and a bit of time that's been lost and right now I have lots of both.</p><p><br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-K8Gyn5-EuV4/YTSvroDKd3I/AAAAAAAALdw/N0DLxDSxOkMHEyvNHxGs4UmGedd0CwtqQCLcBGAsYHQ/s674/maroon%2Bdress%2Bfront%2B2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="a white woman posing in a maroon dress" border="0" data-original-height="674" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-K8Gyn5-EuV4/YTSvroDKd3I/AAAAAAAALdw/N0DLxDSxOkMHEyvNHxGs4UmGedd0CwtqQCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/maroon%2Bdress%2Bfront%2B2.jpg" title="Vogue 8685 maroon dress www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><p>Actually this dress took quite a lot of time to finish and it's only because of refusal to make any new UFOs that I finished this at all. And looking at these photos of the finished dress I'm probably going to refashion into a skirt when I get over the frustration of this pattern.</p><p><br /></p><p></p><div>So this pattern is Vogue 8685 which is now OOP but has 34 positive reviews over on Pattern Review. Being a pear shaped, my waist is relatively narrow compared to my hips so I liked the focus of this pattern on the midriff.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-n9eGqajLWuo/YTSzcWFHngI/AAAAAAAALeg/P-O5AWZHOfcN0x1Zcpc57jhYLBtc6lYKQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/vogue%2B8685%2Bpattern.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="a picture of a sewing pattern cover" border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1410" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-n9eGqajLWuo/YTSzcWFHngI/AAAAAAAALeg/P-O5AWZHOfcN0x1Zcpc57jhYLBtc6lYKQCLcBGAsYHQ/w440-h640/vogue%2B8685%2Bpattern.jpg" title="Vogue 8685" width="440" /></a></div><br /><div>However, the midriff band and the curved yoke was just too much for my figure - it was too tight around the hip and too loose on the top which just looked terrible. Here is the first iteration of the dress made according to the pattern:</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HZLflis6f3E/YTSxSzXAAtI/AAAAAAAALd4/MyXp5I7o2lQMTwHboDpXJ7lwGX99HBWTgCLcBGAsYHQ/s645/maroon%2Bdress%2Bbefore%2B1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="a photo of a badly fitting dress" border="0" data-original-height="645" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HZLflis6f3E/YTSxSzXAAtI/AAAAAAAALd4/MyXp5I7o2lQMTwHboDpXJ7lwGX99HBWTgCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/maroon%2Bdress%2Bbefore%2B1.jpg" title="Vogue 8685 maroon dress www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gJPR-wwLRts/YTSxTPXIcDI/AAAAAAAALeA/Zk8FiYNxkvEdsAfvfj7FNgUpEmRGMHSjQCLcBGAsYHQ/s681/maroon%2Bdress%2Bbefore%2B2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="a photo of a badly fitting dress" border="0" data-original-height="681" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gJPR-wwLRts/YTSxTPXIcDI/AAAAAAAALeA/Zk8FiYNxkvEdsAfvfj7FNgUpEmRGMHSjQCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/maroon%2Bdress%2Bbefore%2B2.jpg" title="Vogue 8685 maroon dress www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DKvhGKUpLss/YTSxTKDloGI/AAAAAAAALd8/gzIBKdrATb8xk9VoUilQN-pwJcY0VXUlgCLcBGAsYHQ/s753/maroon%2Bdress%2Bbefore%2B3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="a photo of a badly fitting dress" border="0" data-original-height="753" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DKvhGKUpLss/YTSxTKDloGI/AAAAAAAALd8/gzIBKdrATb8xk9VoUilQN-pwJcY0VXUlgCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/maroon%2Bdress%2Bbefore%2B3.jpg" title="Vogue 8685 maroon dress www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><div>So out came the unpicker and I adjusted the pattern pieces by letting out and taking in the seam where needed to make it fit. But then the curved yoke just looked droopy and the seam line finished at my widest part which just emphasised my saddlebag thighs. No photos of this stage because I was really annoyed with it.</div><div><br /></div><div>In a last ditch effort to prevent this becoming a UFO, I decided to take off the curved yoke and just have the midriff waistband piece. I had to fuss around a bit with the skirt to make it fit by adding some pleats to the front and cutting out some excess from the back and then re-sew the invisible zip matching the seam lines again. So now it's finished.....but it's not great.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XjLVonsrAYw/YTSyj7-7ldI/AAAAAAAALeQ/6tWRlyP5Y8ce44qTTHE2EMuhKSUfzS_UACLcBGAsYHQ/s673/maroon%2Bdress%2Bbodice.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="a photo of a white woman posing in a maroon dress" border="0" data-original-height="673" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XjLVonsrAYw/YTSyj7-7ldI/AAAAAAAALeQ/6tWRlyP5Y8ce44qTTHE2EMuhKSUfzS_UACLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/maroon%2Bdress%2Bbodice.jpg" title="Vogue 8685 maroon dress www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iUzR6IBEE8I/YTSykMvXc5I/AAAAAAAALeU/GFpCTOz3eJIOJl6p8dRXkfD6MXXiSsJOACLcBGAsYHQ/s670/maroon%2Bdress%2Bfront%2B1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="a photo of a white woman posing in a maroon dress" border="0" data-original-height="670" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iUzR6IBEE8I/YTSykMvXc5I/AAAAAAAALeU/GFpCTOz3eJIOJl6p8dRXkfD6MXXiSsJOACLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/maroon%2Bdress%2Bfront%2B1.jpg" title="Vogue 8685 maroon dress www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><div>The proportions are all off because that waistband sits too high, there is too much fabric under my bust which makes it look floofy and those pleats I added to the skirt just emphasise a round tummy. And those sleeves! Those sleeves are way too big and way too long but I could face more re-sewing on this project, so instead I added elastic to the cuff to make it look a bit like a bell sleeve. But actually they just look too big.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ah1aXNPcIy8/YTSzVbwCY0I/AAAAAAAALec/zgToqOGtixorQI13Wth41OhSf4G-rOBKQCLcBGAsYHQ/s702/maroon%2Bdress%2Bsleeve.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="a photo of a woman posing in a maroon dress" border="0" data-original-height="702" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ah1aXNPcIy8/YTSzVbwCY0I/AAAAAAAALec/zgToqOGtixorQI13Wth41OhSf4G-rOBKQCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/maroon%2Bdress%2Bsleeve.jpg" title="Vogue 8685 maroon dress www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><div>This fabric is a really lovely deep plum crepe that I picked up for a bargain from the <a href="https://achieveaustralia.org.au/the-sewing-basket/" target="_blank">Sewing Basket</a>, a charity run fabric and craft store selling donated items. I am deeply sad that I used this lovely fabric on this catastrophe, but hopefully I can still give it a life as a skirt eventually.</div><div><br /></div><div>Given the glowing reviews on Pattern Review, I think this wadder is all about me and not the pattern so if you have this pattern and were thinking of using don't be put off by my awful outcome. But I do recommend making a muslin and possibly using a stretch fabric. And if it doesn't work out, well it's all experience for life's rich tapestry isn't it? </div><p> </p>Kristy Chanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07385704380789244157noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5916038188571690726.post-21605844160312518562021-07-22T21:40:00.000+10:002021-07-22T21:40:16.134+10:00Completed UFO: Vintage Simplicity 6180 jacket<p>Here I go again.....another attempt at getting back into blogging and another attempt at finishing off some UFOs! At the beginning of this year I set myself the goal of finishing at least 16 UFOs by the end of the year, this is number 8 so I guess I'm on track.</p><p><br /></p><p>I started this jacket maybe 2 or so years ago, and didn't finish it at the time because it turned out overall too big and really shapeless. It's taken me this long to do some unpicking, take it in at nearly all the seams and finish it. It's now done, still a little oversized but I can live with that since it's a casual jacket and not a formal fitted suit blazer.</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-maAvLf8gTHU/YPlQ8cZ2ZOI/AAAAAAAALbg/ph9it25moOgcJFsRTRkZA9nf0whFMI0HQCLcBGAsYHQ/s591/Simplicity%2Bvintage%2Bjacket%2Bfront%2B1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="a white lady posing in a jacket against a wallpapered wall" border="0" data-original-height="591" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-maAvLf8gTHU/YPlQ8cZ2ZOI/AAAAAAAALbg/ph9it25moOgcJFsRTRkZA9nf0whFMI0HQCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/Simplicity%2Bvintage%2Bjacket%2Bfront%2B1.jpg" title="Vintage Simplicity 6180 - 1960s jacket - www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><p>The pattern is Simplicity 6180, a 1960s era pattern. Unfortunately there isn't a pattern for that very cool hat in the envelope, but it does contain a pattern for an a-line skirt with princess seams to match those of the jacket. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OmZmD_fn8DI/YPlRIGGrXsI/AAAAAAAALbk/jXCUbMuJT24aApMlaQsyAS9EXbKA2vM4QCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/simplicity%2B6180.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="sewing pattern cover from the 1960s showing a jacket and skirt pattern" border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1355" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OmZmD_fn8DI/YPlRIGGrXsI/AAAAAAAALbk/jXCUbMuJT24aApMlaQsyAS9EXbKA2vM4QCLcBGAsYHQ/w424-h640/simplicity%2B6180.jpg" title="Vintage Simplicity 6180 - 1960s jacket - www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" width="424" /></a></div><div><br /></div>The fabric I've used is a double knit bought from The Fabric Store some years ago, probably at one of their famous sales. It was really easy to sew with and press, as well as having a bit of stretch to make it comfortable to wear with minimal wrinkling. <div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XPcjTnc5VtQ/YPlWOTu_sUI/AAAAAAAALcg/aHdvrdxWsK0bnvQSBU5VovTq0WZobVg1QCLcBGAsYHQ/s565/simplicity%2Bvintage%2Bjacket%2Bfabric.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="a close up picture of a shoulder and buttons of a jacket" border="0" data-original-height="462" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XPcjTnc5VtQ/YPlWOTu_sUI/AAAAAAAALcg/aHdvrdxWsK0bnvQSBU5VovTq0WZobVg1QCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/simplicity%2Bvintage%2Bjacket%2Bfabric.jpg" title="Vintage Simplicity 6180 - 1960s jacket - www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><div>The buttons are the real superstars of this jacket. I was originally going to make fabric covered buttons, but since we're back in lockdown here in Sydney I had to use what was in the stash so I decided to use some vintage buttons that I picked up from an Australian Sewing Guild industry day a few years ago. A lady used to have a stall selling her mother's stash of habadashery items that had been collected over a long time. I have no idea what era these buttons are, I think they are earlier than the 1960s but I think the colour and shape works well with this jacket. The inside buttons are just some pale pink buttons also from the stash.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2TCnKA1Ob98/YPlSyKBTP9I/AAAAAAAALb4/EsxpJvfYh3AeHNuZMTrvuPlZu9toPNufgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/buttons.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="a picture of brown hexagon buttons on a cardboard backing" border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1440" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2TCnKA1Ob98/YPlSyKBTP9I/AAAAAAAALb4/EsxpJvfYh3AeHNuZMTrvuPlZu9toPNufgCLcBGAsYHQ/w450-h640/buttons.jpg" title="Vintage beutron buttons www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" width="450" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Iq8LGETTLT8/YPlXlsPErGI/AAAAAAAALco/ratXnsrvvnsSPBHsGxMjwoSrHlIjelE5gCLcBGAsYHQ/s565/Simplicity%2Bvintage%2Bjacket%2Bbuttons.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="close up photo of buttons and loops" border="0" data-original-height="565" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Iq8LGETTLT8/YPlXlsPErGI/AAAAAAAALco/ratXnsrvvnsSPBHsGxMjwoSrHlIjelE5gCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/Simplicity%2Bvintage%2Bjacket%2Bbuttons.jpg" title="Vintage Simplicity 6180 - 1960s jacket - www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LjAGD2RFcFQ/YPlSx5C88kI/AAAAAAAALbw/IbIvwfPKKoo2XVJwoUeurYVOpQEaeEbbQCLcBGAsYHQ/s720/Simplicity%2Bvintage%2Bjacket%2Binside.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="a white woman holding a jacket open to show the insides" border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LjAGD2RFcFQ/YPlSx5C88kI/AAAAAAAALbw/IbIvwfPKKoo2XVJwoUeurYVOpQEaeEbbQCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/Simplicity%2Bvintage%2Bjacket%2Binside.jpg" title="Vintage Simplicity 6180 - 1960s jacket - www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><div>As I said earlier the reason this became a UFO in the first place was because it turned out too big. I ended up taking it in through the side seams and princess seams to get a closer fit without losing too much of the boxy shape. The back view now looks better, but I think the sleeves are way too wide and too long as well - these photos make it look really obvious. I think I will have to do some more unpicking and narrow them a bit more. Who knows how long that will take me!?</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SsbrSiqRJis/YPlTUMFnJPI/AAAAAAAALcI/VxvX_rZiqg8iA-bEgRv9DLcTCQXlV3bnwCLcBGAsYHQ/s673/Simplicity%2Bvintage%2Bjacket%2Bback.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="a white woman facing away from the camera showing the back of a jacket" border="0" data-original-height="673" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SsbrSiqRJis/YPlTUMFnJPI/AAAAAAAALcI/VxvX_rZiqg8iA-bEgRv9DLcTCQXlV3bnwCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/Simplicity%2Bvintage%2Bjacket%2Bback.jpg" title="Vintage Simplicity 6180 - 1960s jacket - www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Qg7IdJ3_lYI/YPlTULfEokI/AAAAAAAALcM/IGhBX_YcAj4-GYTdq002X6NHH-urGZsQACLcBGAsYHQ/s565/Simplicity%2Bvintage%2Bjacket%2Bfront%2B2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="a white woman posing in a jacket" border="0" data-original-height="531" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Qg7IdJ3_lYI/YPlTULfEokI/AAAAAAAALcM/IGhBX_YcAj4-GYTdq002X6NHH-urGZsQACLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/Simplicity%2Bvintage%2Bjacket%2Bfront%2B2.jpg" title="Vintage Simplicity 6180 - 1960s jacket - www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><div>One of the great things about this jacket is that although it's essentially a double breasted jacket it still looks pretty good worn open. The front facings fold back nicely to form a lapel and being a lightweight jacket it hangs open well.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_V-oQJ3BdZQ/YPlT-8cCvbI/AAAAAAAALcY/ryBQ_pleAE02FjyHYdzbQVNAInzk34MCQCLcBGAsYHQ/s633/Simplicity%2Bvintage%2Bjacket%2Bopen.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="a white woman posing in a jacket" border="0" data-original-height="633" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_V-oQJ3BdZQ/YPlT-8cCvbI/AAAAAAAALcY/ryBQ_pleAE02FjyHYdzbQVNAInzk34MCQCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/Simplicity%2Bvintage%2Bjacket%2Bopen.jpg" title="Vintage Simplicity 6180 - 1960s jacket - www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><div>And as I always say after every UFO I finish - I don't know why I took so long to get around to it! The good news is that I haven't created any new UFOs in at least the last 2 years, the bad news is that I still have quite a big box of past UFOs to get through!</div></div>Kristy Chanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07385704380789244157noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5916038188571690726.post-2372806395156388172021-02-28T22:24:00.000+11:002021-02-28T22:25:24.298+11:00Just another lovely dress: Burda 8/2015 #123<p>If you follow me on instagram (@kristysewsalot) you'll know that this year I am trying to sew up all the fabrics that I bought in 2019 that are still sitting in my stash. I'm also trying to finish up at 16 of my UFOs for good measure. This mini challenge follows the success of last year's efforts to sew all the fabrics I bought last year - fingers crossed I can do this too!</p><p><br /></p><p>I'm off to a fairly decent start - of the 23 fabrics I need to sew this year and the 16 UFOs I want to finish I've already sewn 4 pieces and 4 UFOs (just my blogging hasn't kept up). My latest project is fabric no.4 from that pile - a fairly thick cotton duck like fabric in a gorgeous green with a flower print. I bought this from an online fabric store called Daily Like which has since sadly closed down.</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YU9KrHAPpb0/YDt4cB5ExjI/AAAAAAAALSM/fe14OG0SS-oRNVaUssmdULGTh0FbMvypQCLcBGAsYHQ/s708/green%2Bburda%2Bdress%2Bfront.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="a white lady posing in a green dress standing in front of some plants and wall prints" border="0" data-original-height="708" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YU9KrHAPpb0/YDt4cB5ExjI/AAAAAAAALSM/fe14OG0SS-oRNVaUssmdULGTh0FbMvypQCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/green%2Bburda%2Bdress%2Bfront.JPG" title="Green pleated dress Burda 8/2015 #123 www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><p>My trusty back catalogue of Burda has come through with the perfect pattern - <a href="https://www.burdastyle.com/wool-dress-123-08-15.html" target="_blank">8/2015 #123</a> which is a fairly simple dress:</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3-cdBGdmXZM/YDt4jCgniSI/AAAAAAAALSQ/PaZe9_MIdccE5zd-oPtOqXsrWhkfk-YaACLcBGAsYHQ/s560/Burda%2B8_2015_dress%2B123%2Bpattern.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="an image from Burda Style of a dress sewing pattern" border="0" data-original-height="560" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3-cdBGdmXZM/YDt4jCgniSI/AAAAAAAALSQ/PaZe9_MIdccE5zd-oPtOqXsrWhkfk-YaACLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/Burda%2B8_2015_dress%2B123%2Bpattern.jpg" title="dress Burda 8/2015 #123 www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><p>Because my fabric is quite thick and without much drape, my version has turned out far more a-line than the beautiful white version modelled in the pattern photo. The pattern does recommend using wool or wool blend fabrics, which would make the skirt fall more closely to the body than my version.</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-V2i5wlskFd4/YDt4rtscuwI/AAAAAAAALSU/ajZGa0YP1685qvdPqvuDF6bd-JjqAh-PgCLcBGAsYHQ/s618/green%2Bburda%2Bdress%2Bfront%2Bskirt.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="a white lady posing in a green dress spreading the skirt wide" border="0" data-original-height="618" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-V2i5wlskFd4/YDt4rtscuwI/AAAAAAAALSU/ajZGa0YP1685qvdPqvuDF6bd-JjqAh-PgCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/green%2Bburda%2Bdress%2Bfront%2Bskirt.JPG" title="Green pleated dress Burda 8/2015 #123 www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><p>Despite this, I still really like this. The high waist hits me at my slimmest point, and the pleated skirt means I can have a big lunch and not feel restricted like a normal sheath dress! This was also really easy to fit because I didn't have to grade from a size 34 at the bust to a 38 at the waist to a 42 at the hips - I just cut the skirt in the bigger size and made those waist pleats a little deeper to match the waist size.</p><p><br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pRMWyq2k9i8/YDt40j-hNaI/AAAAAAAALSg/dzEj2cHCPqItGy8S6KXkjTHA7urt4cxKACLcBGAsYHQ/s748/green%2Bburda%2Bdress%2Bside.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="a white lady standing side on and facing away from the camera" border="0" data-original-height="748" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pRMWyq2k9i8/YDt40j-hNaI/AAAAAAAALSg/dzEj2cHCPqItGy8S6KXkjTHA7urt4cxKACLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/green%2Bburda%2Bdress%2Bside.JPG" title="Green pleated dress Burda 8/2015 #123 www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br />The skirt at the back is just plain so it sits flat against the body. Thanks to the width of the skirt at the hemline there was no need for a walking vent, so it was really quick and easy to hem this dress.<p></p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5q67HC2yvsQ/YDt5JjvKmyI/AAAAAAAALSs/lGExXksZq9cKU7rR0oGy0HacTLOdbcvXACLcBGAsYHQ/s730/green%2Bburda%2Bdress%2Bback.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="a lady with red hair posing in a green dress with her back turned to the camera" border="0" data-original-height="730" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5q67HC2yvsQ/YDt5JjvKmyI/AAAAAAAALSs/lGExXksZq9cKU7rR0oGy0HacTLOdbcvXACLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/green%2Bburda%2Bdress%2Bback.JPG" title="Green pleated dress Burda 8/2015 #123 www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><div><br /></div>Unfortunately I didn't have enough fabric to make those elbow length sleeves with the contrasting bands, which is a pity because I do love that lengthy of sleeve and the sleeve bands to match the neck band would have looked nice. But since this is made from a cotton fabric the cap sleeves work well to make it a summer dress instead. <div><div><br /></div><div>The neckband is essential a facing that is sewn to the inside and flipped out instead of the normal way of sewing it to the outside and flipping it in. This is cut from some scrap black cotton sateen and topstitched down. </div><div><br /><p>Overall I really like this pattern, and I would like to make it again in a wool crepe with elbow length sleeves for a winter dress. I didn't line this dress because I wanted it to be a summer dress and the thick cotton fabric isn't clingy at all, but a wool (or similarly drapey fabric) would require a lining.</p><p><br /></p><p>I can highly recommend this pattern if you're looking for something quick, simple but just plain lovely. Luckily you can still download this pattern from the <a href="https://www.burdastyle.com/wool-dress-123-08-15.html" target="_blank">Burda Style website</a> if you don't have a hoard of Burda magazines from the last decade or so like I do!</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SWolsKUKEBM/YDt6rISJapI/AAAAAAAALS0/-Jxf4SUn9JUJHcYg_zzCS5WE6EMJfUOnwCLcBGAsYHQ/s712/green%2Bburda%2Bdress%2Bfront%2B2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="a lady with red hair posing in a green dress" border="0" data-original-height="712" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SWolsKUKEBM/YDt6rISJapI/AAAAAAAALS0/-Jxf4SUn9JUJHcYg_zzCS5WE6EMJfUOnwCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/green%2Bburda%2Bdress%2Bfront%2B2.JPG" title="Green pleated dress Burda 8/2015 #123 www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p></div></div>Kristy Chanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07385704380789244157noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5916038188571690726.post-54716762232135941702021-01-17T22:28:00.000+11:002021-01-17T22:28:28.719+11:00Things sewn in 2020: pants<p> After more than 20 years of sewing, pants remain my nemesis. Sure they are fairly easy to make, but we all know that getting them to fit well is very difficult. Every time I make a fresh pair I make slight adjustments and I feel I am slowly getting there! Last year I made six pairs of pants, with varying degrees of success.</p><p><br /></p><p>My favourite pants that I made last year is a wide leg pant from a a pattern that I have made a few times previously: Burda 10/2016 #113.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UxONI-w4gWs/YAQXxC9wIOI/AAAAAAAALPo/C_TyaQ5HbDsMw35gcKAK_IXlJvpIHSnywCLcBGAsYHQ/s565/burda%2B10%2B2016%2B%2523113%2Bpattern%2Bpic.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="an image of a sewing pattern for pants and a blonde model wearing white pants, a white top and blue and white jumper draped around her shoulders" border="0" data-original-height="565" data-original-width="565" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UxONI-w4gWs/YAQXxC9wIOI/AAAAAAAALPo/C_TyaQ5HbDsMw35gcKAK_IXlJvpIHSnywCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h400/burda%2B10%2B2016%2B%2523113%2Bpattern%2Bpic.jpg" title="Burda 10/2016 #113 wide leg pants sewing pattern" width="400" /></a></div><div><br /></div>I made a pair in a blush pink medium weight linen that I made as per the pattern with the wide legs and the sewn on pockets on the front. I also made a black pair from wool suiting, that I narrowed the leg and left off the pockets.<div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8aa6ffMN9x0/YAQYGjNDDbI/AAAAAAAALPw/K-qtS2GDChwkRDhfvYLTyL58E5GKXNfZwCLcBGAsYHQ/s560/pink%2Band%2Bblack%2Bpants.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="a white lady with red hair posing in a pair of pink wide leg pants and a white top, and in a pair of black straight leg pants and a fuchsia coloured top" border="0" data-original-height="560" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8aa6ffMN9x0/YAQYGjNDDbI/AAAAAAAALPw/K-qtS2GDChwkRDhfvYLTyL58E5GKXNfZwCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/pink%2Band%2Bblack%2Bpants.jpg" title="Burda 10/2016 #113 wide leg pink pants www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I find that the wide leg style mostly gets rid of those annoying drag lines I usually get on the back of the thigh. When I narrowed the leg for the black pair they came back slightly, but it seems this pair has a good crotch curve for me. After doing Sarah Veblen's course on pant fitting over at patternreview.com I have discovered I need to have a long back crotch and to scoop it quite low to provide enough space for my ample and low hanging derriere.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VObPKh5blRk/YAQYNsZ0qwI/AAAAAAAALP0/aVVjEkOCpuEp-fkqKzRDIM2aXxCbqC9SgCLcBGAsYHQ/s560/pink%2Blinen%2Bpants.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="a white lady posing in a pair of pink wide leg pants and a blue denim jacket" border="0" data-original-height="560" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VObPKh5blRk/YAQYNsZ0qwI/AAAAAAAALP0/aVVjEkOCpuEp-fkqKzRDIM2aXxCbqC9SgCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/pink%2Blinen%2Bpants.jpg" title="Burda 10/2016 #113 pink wide leg pants www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><div><br /></div>My next favourite pair from last year are a pair that I haven't worn as yet (because they are work pants), but I love the shape and look even though I would never have thought I would wear pleat front pants ever again! This pattern has a v-shaped yoke at the front, which means that the pleats start lower on my stomach and the fabric is flat over the roundest part of my waist which makes it more flattering. There are a few wrinkles on the back leg but less than I usually get, so I can live with how these look.<div><br /></div><div>These pants are made from a navy blue wool suiting, using Burda 4/2014 #110.</div><div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-M5m5ioc_pN8/YAQZYoZI1-I/AAAAAAAALQE/-n-M0QiVlagmgLJxpe52fZp5O3E1ybQBwCLcBGAsYHQ/s560/navy%2Bblue%2Bwool%2Bpants.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="a white lady posing in a pair of navy blue wool pants and white top, and an image of a sewing pattern for pleated pants" border="0" data-original-height="560" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-M5m5ioc_pN8/YAQZYoZI1-I/AAAAAAAALQE/-n-M0QiVlagmgLJxpe52fZp5O3E1ybQBwCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/navy%2Bblue%2Bwool%2Bpants.jpg" title="navy blue pleated wool pants Burda 4/2014 #110 www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1nsIcgULdmM/YAQZgTaeEoI/AAAAAAAALQI/31X4goVH0ocA5VLeLPfZDT-mQf3NsuMNgCLcBGAsYHQ/s560/navy%2Bblue%2Bwool%2Bpants%2Bback%2Band%2Bside.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="the side and back views of a white lady wearing navy blue pants and a white top" border="0" data-original-height="560" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1nsIcgULdmM/YAQZgTaeEoI/AAAAAAAALQI/31X4goVH0ocA5VLeLPfZDT-mQf3NsuMNgCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/navy%2Bblue%2Bwool%2Bpants%2Bback%2Band%2Bside.jpg" title="navy blue pleated wool pants Burda 4/2014 #110 www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I made another pair of wide leg pants early in 2020 from a printed linen that has been in my stash for a long time. I wore these quite a few times to work with a blue blazer and the chartruse one in the photo below, and casually with a black or white tshirt. The colour has faded after so many washes, but these are still great pants. This is another Burda pattern of course, this time 2/2010 #110:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-628L6V7_zvg/YAQaOqK15QI/AAAAAAAALQU/Ly_2uJni2L4uibz9lD_9jigRGY7HpaR0QCLcBGAsYHQ/s560/black%2Blinen%2Bprint%2Bpants.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="a white lady posing in a chartreuse coloured jacket and printed black linen pants" border="0" data-original-height="560" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-628L6V7_zvg/YAQaOqK15QI/AAAAAAAALQU/Ly_2uJni2L4uibz9lD_9jigRGY7HpaR0QCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/black%2Blinen%2Bprint%2Bpants.jpg" title="charteuse linen jacket and black printed linen pants Burda 2/2010 #106 www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Finally, my least two favourite pairs made last year. I bought some lovely dark teal linen to make a suit, but the pants didn't turn out great. The pants are a bit high waisted, and since linen grows after wearing it for a while these pants have a tendency to slide down and look saggy. After wearing them a few times I decided I couldn't live with them as they were, and I've actually got these pants in my repair pile with the waistband pulled off. I'm going to take them in slight at the side seams and put some elastic in the back waist to help keep them up where they belong.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Apart from that they are ok, but not great. I found the welt pocket at the back gaped open, so I added a little tortoiseshell button to help keep it closed. There are wrinkles on the back leg as usual, indicating the crotch curve needs some more work on this pattern.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HcR8QMDL1MQ/YAQbGt6x5oI/AAAAAAAALQc/2fKUXGcyHVwupYZEf8RmMu7XmNWmFxRxQCLcBGAsYHQ/s560/teal%2Blinen%2Bpants.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="a white lady posing in teal linen pants and a navy top" border="0" data-original-height="560" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HcR8QMDL1MQ/YAQbGt6x5oI/AAAAAAAALQc/2fKUXGcyHVwupYZEf8RmMu7XmNWmFxRxQCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/teal%2Blinen%2Bpants.jpg" title="teal linen straight leg pants Burda 12/2013 #106 www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The pattern is Burda 12/2013 #106:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4FuY0LwDZrM/YAQbMIHIbQI/AAAAAAAALQg/AMSRl9nudj89x4My5b534i0fwI4a2FfvQCLcBGAsYHQ/s450/burda%2B12%2B2013%2Bpants%2B106.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="an image of a sewing pattern for pants" border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="338" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4FuY0LwDZrM/YAQbMIHIbQI/AAAAAAAALQg/AMSRl9nudj89x4My5b534i0fwI4a2FfvQCLcBGAsYHQ/w300-h400/burda%2B12%2B2013%2Bpants%2B106.jpg" title="Burda 12/2013 #106 pants pattern www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" width="300" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Finally I get to my least favourite pair but funnily enough I still frequently wear these because they are casual and lightweight and just what I need these days. These are Burda 4/2016 #117 and I like the pocket flaps and the hem cuffs, but the fit on these turned out just awful. Whiskers across the front, wrinkles on the back leg and a weird length - if the cuff is down it looks accidentally too short so I wear them turned up to look deliberately cropped.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">But they are comfortable, and since they are made from a light cotton sateen they have been perfect for this cool and rainy summer we have been having here in Sydney this year.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZOzQIJADB1Y/YAQb8gfT-nI/AAAAAAAALQs/3PJ1vL66ADkBXYiiarRpDHSy5sl9xlgygCLcBGAsYHQ/s560/blue%2Bcotton%2Bpants.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="a white lady posing in blue pants, a white tshirt and a red and white scarf, and an image of a sewing pattern for pants" border="0" data-original-height="560" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZOzQIJADB1Y/YAQb8gfT-nI/AAAAAAAALQs/3PJ1vL66ADkBXYiiarRpDHSy5sl9xlgygCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/blue%2Bcotton%2Bpants.jpg" title="Burda 4/2016 #117 cropped pants www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /> </div>This isn't the end of my pants fitting journey - I've given up making muslins because all I end up with are a bunch of poorly fitting calico pants that can't be worn anywhere! Instead, I'll keep on making slight adjustments until I reach my holy grail - a pair of slim leg pants with no wrinkles on the back leg.....<br /><div><br /><p><br /></p></div></div></div>Kristy Chanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07385704380789244157noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5916038188571690726.post-36627527693557796322021-01-09T22:34:00.017+11:002021-01-09T23:11:36.290+11:00Things sewn in 2020: jackets<p>My love for sewing jackets, especially tailored jackets, continued this year despite having no real reason to wear one because I wasn't in the office for most of the year. I made 8 jackets last year, of which 5 are definitely corporate wear and 3 are more relaxed.</p><p><br /></p><p>My most worn jackets last year are two bomber jackets both made from the same pattern but in very different fabrics. The first version is made from wool in black and white gingham, lined in black bemsilk lining. I didn't have any black ribbing, but used some black ponte fabric which has worked really well. The other version is made from a very lightweight cotton voile that I lined with a crisp cotton poplin not only to give it enough body but also to give some depth to the pale pink and pale green fern print. I used some grey ribbing from the stash. Both have been worn a lot last year and this year already (even the wool one because so far it's been a cold summer).</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0nQ5Q6mAtcE/X_mM0fF0BgI/AAAAAAAALOM/m-EGOTuFyqUQ2Rl5_p76GG6QGakqqEtXwCLcBGAsYHQ/s560/bomber%2Bjackets.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="diy bomber jackets Burda Easy 2014 www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" border="0" data-original-height="560" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0nQ5Q6mAtcE/X_mM0fF0BgI/AAAAAAAALOM/m-EGOTuFyqUQ2Rl5_p76GG6QGakqqEtXwCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/bomber%2Bjackets.jpg" title="a white woman posing in a black and white check bomber jacket and a pink and green printed bomber jacket" /></a></div><p>The pattern is from a 2014 Burda Easy magazine that I picked up at a Sydney Spoolettes fabric swap, and the pattern is indeed quite easy. Even the instructions for the welt pockets are pretty good for Burda.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3Ndk4d2OCZY/X_mMgZDK_4I/AAAAAAAALOE/Fe-JYM21HmMXkXtrxGJhB4SEBbaKteoigCLcBGAsYHQ/s2000/bomber%2Bjacket%2Bpattern.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Burda Easy 2014 magazine" border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="2000" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3Ndk4d2OCZY/X_mMgZDK_4I/AAAAAAAALOE/Fe-JYM21HmMXkXtrxGJhB4SEBbaKteoigCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h400/bomber%2Bjacket%2Bpattern.jpg" title="the cover of a sewing magazine and a sewing pattern for a bomber jacket" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p>My second favourite and semi-casual jacket is a linen kimono sleeved jacket made from a chartreuse heavy weight linen. This is made from a 2002 Burda magazine and I love the turned up cuffed sleeves and the slight stand up collar. I wore this a few times last year - both to the office with pants and casually with jeans.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2oBgbnBqecI/X_mN0_T3u0I/AAAAAAAALOY/HLxZcb5BBtwbReGTJvN2IhbvV3jq130VwCLcBGAsYHQ/s560/chartruese%2Blinen%2Bjacket.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Burda 6/2002 #101 chartreuse linen kimono jacket www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" border="0" data-original-height="560" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2oBgbnBqecI/X_mN0_T3u0I/AAAAAAAALOY/HLxZcb5BBtwbReGTJvN2IhbvV3jq130VwCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/chartruese%2Blinen%2Bjacket.jpg" title="a white woman posing in a chartreuse coloured jacket in front of indoor plants" /></a></div><div><br /></div>My third favourite jacket made last year is a vibrant emerald green wool tweed jacket heavily inspired by a jacket that Peggy wore in Mad Men. I had no reason to make this other than I loved the fabric! But I will definitely wear it to work when things get back to normal. Again I used an older Burda pattern - 4/2014 #103 which I made no size modifications to despite using a firm woven fabric with no stretch even though the pattern calls for jersey or soft wool. I hand stitched the navy blue grosgrain ribbon around the collar which really hurt my fingers but it was worth it - I love the curved front hem and the neat fit from the princess seams. I plan a few more jackets from this pattern in the future.<div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-O0XaDq2H1ac/X_mOfgmly6I/AAAAAAAALOg/PdKzm5hR4305wopO02PgcQirfxk0ybamQCLcBGAsYHQ/s560/green%2Bboucle%2Bblazer.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="emerald green Mad Men style blazer Burda 4/2014 #103 www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" border="0" data-original-height="560" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-O0XaDq2H1ac/X_mOfgmly6I/AAAAAAAALOg/PdKzm5hR4305wopO02PgcQirfxk0ybamQCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/green%2Bboucle%2Bblazer.jpg" title="a white woman posing in a green tailored jacket standing in front of a kitchen" /></a></div>Another work jacket that I made very early in the year and actually wore to the office a few times in February and early March is a blazer from Burda 9/2016 #108. I made this pattern a few years ago in a <a href="http://loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com/2016/11/burda-of-month-92016-108-blazer.html" target="_blank">light pink soft wool crepe</a> which I still wear frequently so I knew the pattern was good. This version is made in a teal heavy weight linen, lined in a glorious green silk. I made the matching pants that you can just see in this photo but they need some rework because they bag out quickly and get too big after about 2 hours of wear.</div><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oniWAEqk-Mk/X_mPPd3Kp0I/AAAAAAAALOs/RMvbwDowF0g_SptiCerPdSTjWPyR80x0ACLcBGAsYHQ/s560/teal%2Blinen%2Bjacket.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="teal green linen blazer Burda 9/2016 #108 www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" border="0" data-original-height="560" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oniWAEqk-Mk/X_mPPd3Kp0I/AAAAAAAALOs/RMvbwDowF0g_SptiCerPdSTjWPyR80x0ACLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/teal%2Blinen%2Bjacket.jpg" title="a white woman posing in a teal linen green suit" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>I have narrow shoulders and one of my obsessions is getting a neat fit around the shoulders - I'm always doing a narrow shoulder and a forward shoulder adjustment, and will re-sew a sleeve head multiple times until it's pucker free. So I don't know what I was thinking making a jacket with a quirky square sleeve head with a big pleat at the shoulder! I used a beautiful sage green wool suiting fabric that I picked up from a charity shop and thought it would look great in a fashion forward kind of way. Luckily I was able to re-cut the sleeve into a standard shape and resew it because it looked ridiculously pointy and just wrong. This is New Look 6013, and aside from those quirky sleeves it's a great looking jacket:</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-g-S7Iww-Jfw/X_mc5sfAJaI/AAAAAAAALPM/o-eGaI2cErMS9kl8z9ZUrIp8Xae8sfvWQCLcBGAsYHQ/s560/sage%2Bgreen%2Bwool%2Bjacket.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="New Look 6013 sage green wool blazer www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" border="0" data-original-height="560" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-g-S7Iww-Jfw/X_mc5sfAJaI/AAAAAAAALPM/o-eGaI2cErMS9kl8z9ZUrIp8Xae8sfvWQCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/sage%2Bgreen%2Bwool%2Bjacket.jpg" title="a white lady posing in a pale green jacket, white top and grey bead necklace" /></a></div><br /><div>I do like jackets with a cool collar or some sort of design twist, and this asymmetrical wrap jacket from an old New Look 6619 pattern fit the bill perfectly. The front was actually meant to be asymmetrical - it just turned out that way when I positioned the button in the best place to fit my bust and shoulders! I actually prefer the way it looks like this. This is made from a white blue and pink tweed jacket, lined in a pale blue bemsilk from the stash (I was really big on using stash fabric last year).</div><div> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YrgILWf3uoQ/X_mQCgUijoI/AAAAAAAALO0/zZNJTqAmWeoddvWb6NEmPazLZc5AavuawCLcBGAsYHQ/s560/white%2Bblue%2Btweed%2Bjacket.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="white tweed wrap front jacket New Look 6619 www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" border="0" data-original-height="448" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YrgILWf3uoQ/X_mQCgUijoI/AAAAAAAALO0/zZNJTqAmWeoddvWb6NEmPazLZc5AavuawCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/white%2Bblue%2Btweed%2Bjacket.jpg" title="a white woman posing in a white jacket standing in front of a bookshelf" /></a></div><br /><div>Finally, my most recent and least favourite is a gorgeous fuchsia wool suiting that I tortured into a tailored jacket. The fabric is quite lightweight and drapey, which I picked because the collar of the jacket I tried to make is a scarf style in a shawl neckline. The pattern is Burda 7286 view A. Well that backfired because the collar would not properly at all when folded over on itself and I got so annoyed with it that I eventually ripped the collar off and made it a collarless jacket.</div><div><br /></div><div>I even went to the effort of making welt pockets with flaps and a bound button hole, but this fabric just wasn't right for this style of jacket. I used light interfacing to block fuse the body pieces, but the more I steam pressed the jacket the more it bubbly and stretched out. It looks ok in photos, and while I probably won't wear it in person, someone clever on my IG suggested wearing it for video calls because the imperfections won't be noticeable! So that's my plan, because I don't want to waste this fabric.</div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6je1RFxOiG0/X_mRlLEE17I/AAAAAAAALPA/Eseue96YANcfrXD9dEBipciks4FOJ-DrQCLcBGAsYHQ/s560/fuchsia%2Bjacket.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Burda 7286 fuchsia wool blazer www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" border="0" data-original-height="560" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6je1RFxOiG0/X_mRlLEE17I/AAAAAAAALPA/Eseue96YANcfrXD9dEBipciks4FOJ-DrQCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/fuchsia%2Bjacket.jpg" title="a white woman posing in a fuchsia blazer and grey dress standing in front of a yellow wall papered wall" /></a></div><br /> So I do have plans for a few more jackets this year, time will tell whether I get to actually wear them all in the office this year though!</div></div>Kristy Chanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07385704380789244157noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5916038188571690726.post-91534893851646736482021-01-04T10:50:00.006+11:002021-01-04T10:56:27.840+11:00Things sewn in 2020: dresses<p>I had a very prolific sewing year in 2020 - I finished 62 projects, used up 87m of fabric (including all the pieces purchased in 2020) and only bought 56m of fabric. This wasn't reflected on my poor neglected blog though - too much sewing and not enough time blogging! But I do like to record my output for future posterity, either because I'm trying to remember what pattern I used for a particular garment or I'm about to use a pattern again and want to check how I felt about it previously. Plus I always google a pattern before I use it to see how it turned out for others, so I feel I should give back to the internets.</p><p><br /></p><p>I don't have time to do 50 or so blog posts for each finished project though, so I'm going to wrap them up in one bumper post for each category. Today's post is my favourite garment - dresses! I made 12 of them last year, so this will be a longish post.</p><p><br /></p><p>My favourite dress is this vibrant green and navy blue scuba fabric that I made into Vogue 9167 in early December. The colour is gorgeous, the fit turned out well with minimal alterations and it has pockets! I haven't worn it yet unfortunately because due to Covid I only had one very casual and small Christmas function to attend. This dress is quite simple to make, and has clever cut outs at the waistline pleats to reduce bulk which was important for this thick and spongy fabric.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OsgNPD4BX5o/X_JUgcP_FYI/AAAAAAAALNQ/vvsLCLc42jgbrTwaiPUzPbSeNlfyFuAuQCLcBGAsYHQ/s560/green%2Bvogue%2Bdress.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="a white lady posing in a green floral dress and pink high heels and the cover of a Vogue sewing pattern" border="0" data-original-height="560" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OsgNPD4BX5o/X_JUgcP_FYI/AAAAAAAALNQ/vvsLCLc42jgbrTwaiPUzPbSeNlfyFuAuQCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/green%2Bvogue%2Bdress.jpg" title="Green floral dress Vogue 9167 www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>My favourite pattern that I made three times is Simplicity 8014 - a shirt dress with an option for a straight dress, curved hem dress or flared skirt dress. This may be one of the few times I've made all views of a sewing pattern - I made it in a navy and red floral linen, a black linen, black and white flannel gingham, and a blue and white crisp cotton shirting fabric. All versions turned out great and have been worn a few times this year already:</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-M13dQg4q58s/X_Gt3NW3kVI/AAAAAAAALLY/i7P_Z1NuyGYPKRQKjzUO7oSrM1bt5p-kgCLcBGAsYHQ/s744/black%2Bgingham%2Bdress.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="a white lady posing in front of a rainbow wall wearing a black and white gingham dress" border="0" data-original-height="744" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-M13dQg4q58s/X_Gt3NW3kVI/AAAAAAAALLY/i7P_Z1NuyGYPKRQKjzUO7oSrM1bt5p-kgCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/black%2Bgingham%2Bdress.jpg" title="Simplicity 8014 black and white gingham dress www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oct6L_w2ssI/X_Gt3utavMI/AAAAAAAALLg/RhcZUg5BJUMlN8K6UR8zO3oozYKGwUYJQCLcBGAsYHQ/s840/black%2Blinen%2Bdress.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="a white lady posing in a black dress in front of a tv in a lounge room" border="0" data-original-height="840" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oct6L_w2ssI/X_Gt3utavMI/AAAAAAAALLg/RhcZUg5BJUMlN8K6UR8zO3oozYKGwUYJQCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/black%2Blinen%2Bdress.jpg" title="black linen shirt dress Simplicity 8014 www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tVVKZsbw9lI/X_Gt3R2En8I/AAAAAAAALLc/U4zyJEL2Id4wRIk045NXGskvViGELEDnQCLcBGAsYHQ/s649/blue%2Blinen%2Bfloral%2Bdress.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="a white lady posing in a blue floral dress beside a pool" border="0" data-original-height="649" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tVVKZsbw9lI/X_Gt3R2En8I/AAAAAAAALLc/U4zyJEL2Id4wRIk045NXGskvViGELEDnQCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/blue%2Blinen%2Bfloral%2Bdress.jpg" title="Navy and red floral shirt dress Simplicity 8014 www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hOnWmmUUnDM/X_JU1tCn9hI/AAAAAAAALNY/mzrBjZZWJqIuGLI2SHaSAhiCT5_oWzZvwCLcBGAsYHQ/s609/blue%2Bshirt%2Bdress.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="a white lady posing in a blue and white shirt dress with hat in front a paling fence" border="0" data-original-height="609" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hOnWmmUUnDM/X_JU1tCn9hI/AAAAAAAALNY/mzrBjZZWJqIuGLI2SHaSAhiCT5_oWzZvwCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/blue%2Bshirt%2Bdress.jpg" title="blue and white shirt dress Simplicity 8014 www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-K1Gt-P2yB58/X_JQoZ4QlDI/AAAAAAAALNE/zwOmomUsMbQgT5xyig3_n0Bx12GwAzgaACLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/simplicity%2B8014.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="cover of a sewing pattern" border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1334" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-K1Gt-P2yB58/X_JQoZ4QlDI/AAAAAAAALNE/zwOmomUsMbQgT5xyig3_n0Bx12GwAzgaACLcBGAsYHQ/w416-h640/simplicity%2B8014.jpg" title="Simplicity 8014 shirt dress sewing pattern" width="416" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div>My most frequently worn dress is a very simple dress made from gingham linen in a mustard colour. It's the Style Arc <a href="https://www.stylearc.com/shop/pdf-sewing-patterns/olivia-dress-pdf/" target="_blank">Olivia</a>, which I changed up by sewing the bodice on the bias. I've made this previously and I knew I had to make some fitting changes to it because I find the neckline to be too low and wide, and the bodice too long on me. This is a casual pull on dress that was perfect for the stay at home casual lifestyle of the last year.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fYs-8HFPU5c/X_JVFE5PfgI/AAAAAAAALNc/8jKpzaGUS6MelcKmKLPAW0jLkXoU4UfcwCLcBGAsYHQ/s560/gingham%2Bstyle%2Barc%2Bolivia%2Bdress.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="a white lady posing in a gingham dress in front of outdoor furniture" border="0" data-original-height="560" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fYs-8HFPU5c/X_JVFE5PfgI/AAAAAAAALNc/8jKpzaGUS6MelcKmKLPAW0jLkXoU4UfcwCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/gingham%2Bstyle%2Barc%2Bolivia%2Bdress.jpg" title="Style Olivia mustard gingham dress www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div>My least favourite dress is probably this very bright printed linen that I made into a vintage Simplicity from 1978. It feels a bit frumpy and the neckline feels like it is choking me so it's currently sitting in my alterations pile to re-do that neckline and possibly shorten it a little. I did like that the cut on sleeves have a sleeve facing, which is a more sophisticated finish than the Style Arc dress which just has turned under sleeve hems.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xdPxlynTw98/X_Gu5x2OTkI/AAAAAAAALMA/vuNtj1A-deYHyCAszoG1qeOTwVyfBwgNgCLcBGAsYHQ/s560/bright%2Blinen%2Bsimplicity%2Bdress.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="a white lady posing in a very colourful dress in front of timber stairs and a vintage sewing pattern cover" border="0" data-original-height="560" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xdPxlynTw98/X_Gu5x2OTkI/AAAAAAAALMA/vuNtj1A-deYHyCAszoG1qeOTwVyfBwgNgCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/bright%2Blinen%2Bsimplicity%2Bdress.jpg" title="Simplicity 8511 vintage sewing pattern www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><div>And finally some dresses that I really like but haven't worn yet this year because they are either work dresses or party dresses, and in a year of work at home / stay at home there was just no occasion (yet!) to wear these. Firstly, a fit and flare dress in Vogue 8667 made in a navy blue bonded crepe, which feels a bit like scuba but presses better:</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zWxuXE5r83s/X_GxM7X3TkI/AAAAAAAALMM/m1VLKl5CqE4Kblgmv4giq8OgCo_jDlwvACLcBGAsYHQ/s560/blue%2Bvogue%2Bdress.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="a white lady posing in a blue dress in front of a yellow wallpapered wall" border="0" data-original-height="560" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zWxuXE5r83s/X_GxM7X3TkI/AAAAAAAALMM/m1VLKl5CqE4Kblgmv4giq8OgCo_jDlwvACLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/blue%2Bvogue%2Bdress.jpg" title="Vogue 8667 navy fit and flare dress www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><div>A swishy dress made in a red textured woven mystery fabric - I can't remember the fabric composition but it drapes well and holds a press. This is another vintage pattern, this time from the 1980s and it turned out surprisingly lovely. I did shorten the bodice because it was designed to puff out over the waistline but with the centre back invisible zip that just made me look like a hunchback. I also shortened the skirt because it was originally almost ankle length on me and then the hem drooped even though it wasn't cut on the bias, so I had to shorten it even more. Still looks great - I just need an occasion other than posing in front of my Christmas tree!</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a6F6aUOpIhE/X_G0qIslQdI/AAAAAAAALMY/PRb9yeelLoQ0pIhWECLNpsLjy2QgAqTmQCLcBGAsYHQ/s560/red%2Bdress.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="a white lady posing in a red dress beside a christmas tree" border="0" data-original-height="560" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a6F6aUOpIhE/X_G0qIslQdI/AAAAAAAALMY/PRb9yeelLoQ0pIhWECLNpsLjy2QgAqTmQCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/red%2Bdress.jpg" title="Vogue 7907 vintage pattern red party dress www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><div><br /></div>A fitted work dress in a black and white plaid bengaline made into New Look 6144 with pleats at the neckline that are only just visible in this busy fabric. I've made this dress before plus this fabric is quite stretchy so there were no fitting problems at all (not often I get to say that!):<div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gzuuQlx4Pw0/X_G1ELW_IuI/AAAAAAAALMg/viL1o1N53rg3nB8Wn2JzNw7fanRWo5Y1ACLcBGAsYHQ/s560/black%2Band%2Bwhite%2Bbengaline%2Bdress.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="a white lady posing in a black and white plaid dress and the cover of a sewing pattern" border="0" data-original-height="560" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gzuuQlx4Pw0/X_G1ELW_IuI/AAAAAAAALMg/viL1o1N53rg3nB8Wn2JzNw7fanRWo5Y1ACLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/black%2Band%2Bwhite%2Bbengaline%2Bdress.jpg" title="New Look 6144 black and white plaid sheath dress www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><div>Earlier in the year I made a dress that I found super difficult with very puzzling instructions that I blogged about here. It's McCalls7429 made in a polyester knit fabric that I am still on the fence about:</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-R3lryikBJtI/X_G2gXGAp1I/AAAAAAAALMs/4UJcZYVuOfwFHFgrJzBiS5Y57i_ldaHRgCLcBGAsYHQ/s560/mccalls%2Btwist%2Bdress.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="a white lady posing in a blue and white twist dress and the cover of a sewing patter" border="0" data-original-height="560" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-R3lryikBJtI/X_G2gXGAp1I/AAAAAAAALMs/4UJcZYVuOfwFHFgrJzBiS5Y57i_ldaHRgCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/mccalls%2Btwist%2Bdress.jpg" title="McCalls 7429 blue and white knot dress www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><div>And finally, I made a dress for my daughter's birthday in January as I do each year. This year's dress was not such a big hit - it turned out a bit frumpy even though she loves the fabric which is a cotton sateen with a cool pineapple border print dress. This is from New Look 6320 which I altered by making the bodice shorter so that more of the skirt fabric was used. I think it might be the sleeves which make it a bit boring - it looks like a bit of a corporate style sheath dress instead of an eleven year old summer dress, so I may modify it in the hopes she will wear it this year at least once.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eFA2vuJL-M4/X_G3_-up4pI/AAAAAAAALM4/IeJHymdKH7YFNoWLAa-KKa1KdnTpJi_cACLcBGAsYHQ/s560/anna%2Bbday%2Bdress%2B2020.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="a young girl posing in a pink and black dress and the cover of a sewing pattern" border="0" data-original-height="560" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eFA2vuJL-M4/X_G3_-up4pI/AAAAAAAALM4/IeJHymdKH7YFNoWLAa-KKa1KdnTpJi_cACLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/anna%2Bbday%2Bdress%2B2020.jpg" title="New Look 6320 tween girl sheath dress www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><div><br /></div>Kristy Chanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07385704380789244157noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5916038188571690726.post-40841875419138373642020-11-29T21:16:00.000+11:002020-11-29T21:16:55.365+11:00White shirt: Burda 10/2008 #113<p> <a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tgrMFUx_nqI/X8HnX8pR4bI/AAAAAAAALJo/IrpAU4L4aeoAa-feQuBfAK_lvvNzuVzfwCLcBGAsYHQ/s691/burda%2Bwhite%2Bshirt%2B4.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img alt="woman wearing a white shirt, black pants and red lipstick" border="0" data-original-height="691" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tgrMFUx_nqI/X8HnX8pR4bI/AAAAAAAALJo/IrpAU4L4aeoAa-feQuBfAK_lvvNzuVzfwCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/burda%2Bwhite%2Bshirt%2B4.jpg" title="Burda 10/2008 #113 shirt www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a><br /><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="text-align: left;">A white shirt may never go out of style, but it can certainly get grubby and stained beyond repair which is why I make a new one at least once a year. I wear a lot of sunscreen, and that tends to turn the cuffs and collars quite brown that even bleach can't remove. Usually I make a simple fitted button up shirt, but this time I decided to try something a little bit different with some cool details. This pattern is from Burda in 2008 when they were still Burda World of Fashion. I've made this shirt once before for my mum, and have been meaning to make myself one for at least the last decade.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="text-align: left;"><br /></span></div><p></p><p>This shirt pattern not only ticks all my boxes - three quarter sleeves with a button tab, raglan sleeves, vertical darts for fitting - but it also offers a little bit more with a looped tab down the front covering the button placket. It certainly adds quite a lot of interest to an otherwise simple shirt. The pattern is 10/2008 #113 which I can't see is available for download, but if you ever see this issue for sale I can highly recommend it, there are quite a few good patterns in it.</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UQ23AtygVoY/X8Nz71oG5BI/AAAAAAAALKQ/obTERIpMSOsZoqvpfRUIcJSvlg5RL8-8wCLcBGAsYHQ/s565/burda%2B10%2B2008%2B113.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Burda sewing pattern" border="0" data-original-height="565" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UQ23AtygVoY/X8Nz71oG5BI/AAAAAAAALKQ/obTERIpMSOsZoqvpfRUIcJSvlg5RL8-8wCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/burda%2B10%2B2008%2B113.jpg" title="Burda Style 10/2008 #113 raglan sleeve blouse" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><p>That looped strip was really quite simple to make - it's essentially just horizontal lines sewn to the shirt halfway between each buttonhole, and then press the fabric downwards towards the hem.</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-B7M_FZ_5XDo/X8Hl3yWolWI/AAAAAAAALI8/D6pwkSlFcKMqNTwS7sC2Rk2M0K_kfDgyACLcBGAsYHQ/s565/burda%2Bwhite%2Bshirt%2Bplacket%2B2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="white shirt close up of buttons" border="0" data-original-height="367" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-B7M_FZ_5XDo/X8Hl3yWolWI/AAAAAAAALI8/D6pwkSlFcKMqNTwS7sC2Rk2M0K_kfDgyACLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/burda%2Bwhite%2Bshirt%2Bplacket%2B2.jpg" title="Burda 10/2008 #113 white shirt www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kBw2KbC0xWo/X8Hl4H7wfiI/AAAAAAAALJA/E_MV2jUzmfc0Cbq7iR38jqhxKjcU278_wCLcBGAsYHQ/s565/burda%2Bwhite%2Bshirt%2Bplacket.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="close up of white shirt front" border="0" data-original-height="518" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kBw2KbC0xWo/X8Hl4H7wfiI/AAAAAAAALJA/E_MV2jUzmfc0Cbq7iR38jqhxKjcU278_wCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/burda%2Bwhite%2Bshirt%2Bplacket.jpg" title="Burda 10/2008 #113 white shirt www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><p>I did mess up the sewing order though - the strip should have been added before the collar, so that the top end of the extra strip would be enclosed within the shirt stand. I added mine after I had sewn the collar on, so I've done a dodgy fix of just topstitching it close to the collar stand seam line - it's clearly visible in the photo below but I doubt anyone else will get close enough to notice.</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZaILr64p1XI/X8HmCOS1DVI/AAAAAAAALJI/zvqOmwRBZ501bO_Eh1P0nxfyVAVFl3dVQCLcBGAsYHQ/s565/burda%2Bwhite%2Bshirt%2Bcollar.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="close up of a white collar shirt" border="0" data-original-height="359" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZaILr64p1XI/X8HmCOS1DVI/AAAAAAAALJI/zvqOmwRBZ501bO_Eh1P0nxfyVAVFl3dVQCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/burda%2Bwhite%2Bshirt%2Bcollar.jpg" title="Burda 10/2008 #113 white shirt www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><p>The fabric I've used is a thick textured white cotton that is probably a bit too stiff for a shirt, but it helps give the looped front and sleeves a bit of structure. It means the back puffs out a bit, which I could fix by making the vertical darts a bit deeper, but I think I'll leave it because it's not too bad.</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jg4ErKZ6PwQ/X8HmlXubTXI/AAAAAAAALJc/LjiMzAzO5Fs2bkDbdwGbtijFELfEuTahQCLcBGAsYHQ/s560/burda%2Bwhite%2Bshirt%2Bback.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="the back view of a woman wearing a white shirt" border="0" data-original-height="540" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jg4ErKZ6PwQ/X8HmlXubTXI/AAAAAAAALJc/LjiMzAzO5Fs2bkDbdwGbtijFELfEuTahQCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/burda%2Bwhite%2Bshirt%2Bback.JPG" title="Burda 10/2008 #113 white shirt www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><p>I also find the way the raglan sleeves meet together as a point on the shoulder very satisfying - it's those little details that people who don't sew will never see but it makes me happy.</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BO34gN25-qQ/X8HmdI2cjyI/AAAAAAAALJY/Pp1bL6cPYZEa_pCfAL1wNdKa-FlcaGc-ACLcBGAsYHQ/s565/burda%2Bwhite%2Bshirt%2Bshoulder.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="close up of a shoulder seam in a white shirt" border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BO34gN25-qQ/X8HmdI2cjyI/AAAAAAAALJY/Pp1bL6cPYZEa_pCfAL1wNdKa-FlcaGc-ACLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/burda%2Bwhite%2Bshirt%2Bshoulder.jpg" title="Burda 10/2008 #113 white shirt www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><p>I found the sizing of this shirt to be quite generous - I made my usual size 34 at the shoulders and grading out to a size 40 at the hips. There is a lot of excess fabric around the arms - the armscye sits quite low and the sleeves are very wide. I think in a softer fabric with more drape this would be fine but it does feel a bit bunchy in this thicker fabric.</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PaRnZhiQoXQ/X8HneBnzG1I/AAAAAAAALJs/nrYI0YdZGXQGZ1_zkhYtCyNnH82QsjmHwCLcBGAsYHQ/s661/burda%2Bwhite%2Bshirt%2B2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="woman wearing a white shirt" border="0" data-original-height="661" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PaRnZhiQoXQ/X8HneBnzG1I/AAAAAAAALJs/nrYI0YdZGXQGZ1_zkhYtCyNnH82QsjmHwCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/burda%2Bwhite%2Bshirt%2B2.jpg" title="Burda 10/2008 #113 white shirt www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><p>I think this is a fantastic pattern, and I can't believe I waited so many years before I made it! I think the loop strip could be added to almost any shirt pattern, and ribbon could be used instead of the shirt fabric so possibly another one of these style shirts is in my near(ish) future.</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5yZJVWeC2GY/X8HoGPX4w5I/AAAAAAAALJ0/jvtFF7IeHv01O7kJyPkSQio7e2gdHmfsACLcBGAsYHQ/s757/burda%2Bwhite%2Bshirt%2Bfull%2Bfront.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="woman posing in a white shirt and black pants" border="0" data-original-height="757" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5yZJVWeC2GY/X8HoGPX4w5I/AAAAAAAALJ0/jvtFF7IeHv01O7kJyPkSQio7e2gdHmfsACLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/burda%2Bwhite%2Bshirt%2Bfull%2Bfront.jpg" title="Burda 10/2008 #113 white shirt www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>Kristy Chanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07385704380789244157noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5916038188571690726.post-79029317349349418282020-11-11T22:23:00.000+11:002020-11-11T22:23:59.243+11:00Shoulders that will poke your eyes out: New Look 6013<p>One of the great things about sewing is that you're not limited to what's available in the shops - you can make what you want. One of the less great things is not finding out until after you've put in some time and effort that what you're making really isn't you!</p><p><br /></p><p>I do like my work jackets to have a bit of interest about them - either a bright colour other than navy or black, or an interesting cut like a shawl collar rather than a standard notched collar. Which has led to my recently finished jacket - a shawl collar, a minty textured wool and formerly some crazy shoulders:</p><p><br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hwvaTQ13CfE/X6vCBPsi26I/AAAAAAAALG0/3uKh1f8r0_EtojkLX4aXhTsEQBBu8-VVQCLcBGAsYHQ/s651/New%2BLook%2B6013%2Bsage%2Bgreen%2Bjacket%2Bfront%2B5%2B%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="New Look 6013 mint green wool shawl collar jacket" border="0" data-original-height="651" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hwvaTQ13CfE/X6vCBPsi26I/AAAAAAAALG0/3uKh1f8r0_EtojkLX4aXhTsEQBBu8-VVQCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/New%2BLook%2B6013%2Bsage%2Bgreen%2Bjacket%2Bfront%2B5%2B%25281%2529.jpg" title="A white lady posing in a mint green jacket, white top and blue skirt" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>I say <i><span style="font-family: verdana;">formerly </span></i>because I ended up pulling off the crazy sleeves and re-sewed on some normal fitting sleeves which is what you seen in the photo. This is New Look 6013, a pattern that is now OOP. I made the <a href="http://loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com/2018/04/new-look-6013-dress-for-our-never.html" target="_blank">dress </a>once before in 2018 from a polka dot linen which I still wear thanks to it being not too fitted. </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-31BUMMM2PoI/X6vCOJ0kSGI/AAAAAAAALG4/nbPyTET4GcoSa07PbpTz5ypJgGYm6yYBwCLcBGAsYHQ/s565/new%2Blook%2B6013%2Bpattern.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="New Look 6013 sewing pattern www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" border="0" data-original-height="565" data-original-width="565" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-31BUMMM2PoI/X6vCOJ0kSGI/AAAAAAAALG4/nbPyTET4GcoSa07PbpTz5ypJgGYm6yYBwCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h400/new%2Blook%2B6013%2Bpattern.jpg" title="the front cover of a sewing pattern showing a dress, jacket, pants and a vest" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p>The sleeve heads have an inverted pleat at the shoulder head which looks good on the model and on my dress form but just looked ridiculous on me. They shoulder head sticks out quite high above my natural shoulder level and to top it off the sleeves were quite wide and baggy too:</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ur4fUuKKxa8/X6vCZ2myw8I/AAAAAAAALHA/MV6X4gqe1as7wtwxRoq8-DOWjrSJcMtugCLcBGAsYHQ/s631/New%2BLook%2B6013%2Bsage%2Bgreen%2Bjacket%2Bshoulder%2B%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="New Look 6013 mint green jacket shoulder www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" border="0" data-original-height="631" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ur4fUuKKxa8/X6vCZ2myw8I/AAAAAAAALHA/MV6X4gqe1as7wtwxRoq8-DOWjrSJcMtugCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/New%2BLook%2B6013%2Bsage%2Bgreen%2Bjacket%2Bshoulder%2B%25281%2529.jpg" title="A close up photo of a shoulder of a jacket" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XKgcdRza2EU/X6vCZ7IZ9cI/AAAAAAAALHE/E4qkjfGMV-cMxTXc43W7-xRmevmoDRaAQCLcBGAsYHQ/s560/New%2BLook%2B6013%2Bsage%2Bgreen%2Bjacket%2Bsleeve%2Bhead%2B%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="New Look 6013 mint green jacket pleated shoulder www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XKgcdRza2EU/X6vCZ7IZ9cI/AAAAAAAALHE/E4qkjfGMV-cMxTXc43W7-xRmevmoDRaAQCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/New%2BLook%2B6013%2Bsage%2Bgreen%2Bjacket%2Bsleeve%2Bhead%2B%25281%2529.jpg" title="a close up photo of a pleated shoulder in a mint green jacket" /></a></div><br /><p>Instead I used a standard sleeve off another New Look pattern to cut out some normal sleeves to sew on. You can see the difference in shape in the photo below.</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qhKFWR3p1Cg/X6vCjckwv1I/AAAAAAAALHI/UKYCRecObgsmg5meszZFPbwsfJK_vV3gQCLcBGAsYHQ/s560/New%2BLook%2B6013%2Bsage%2Bgreen%2Bjacket%2Bsleeve%2B%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="New Look 6013 sleeve comparison www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" border="0" data-original-height="435" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qhKFWR3p1Cg/X6vCjckwv1I/AAAAAAAALHI/UKYCRecObgsmg5meszZFPbwsfJK_vV3gQCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/New%2BLook%2B6013%2Bsage%2Bgreen%2Bjacket%2Bsleeve%2B%25281%2529.jpg" title="A photo showing a sewing pattern placed on a mint green fabric" /></a></div><br /><p>Even though the sleeve head of the new sleeve eased nicely into the shoulder seam, I can see there are terrible drag marks on the sleeves indicating that I need to reshape the shoulder slightly. Well I won't fix this, but it's good to know for the future.</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SBpNdGIe5Mk/X6vCul7EuDI/AAAAAAAALHU/kAx9Wi-j3So9I1um8g8nOrobsLHjCpv9ACLcBGAsYHQ/s615/New%2BLook%2B6013%2Bsage%2Bgreen%2Bjacket%2Bfront%2B3%2B%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="New Look 6013 mint green jacket www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" border="0" data-original-height="615" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SBpNdGIe5Mk/X6vCul7EuDI/AAAAAAAALHU/kAx9Wi-j3So9I1um8g8nOrobsLHjCpv9ACLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/New%2BLook%2B6013%2Bsage%2Bgreen%2Bjacket%2Bfront%2B3%2B%25282%2529.jpg" title="A white lady posing in a mint green coloured jacket, white top and navy blue skirt" /></a></div><br /><p>For the back view instead of cutting on the fold I added a centre back seam so I could shape the seam better to suit my curves. This together with the princess seams means I got quite a nice fit in the back:</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9ZQhZpXvLow/X6vC2Yhc7eI/AAAAAAAALHc/XQuiUGikzxI1ol_wIjZGLJ59i5QUl1J7QCLcBGAsYHQ/s604/New%2BLook%2B6013%2Bsage%2Bgreen%2Bjacket%2Bback%2B%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="New Look 6013 mint green jacket www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" border="0" data-original-height="604" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9ZQhZpXvLow/X6vC2Yhc7eI/AAAAAAAALHc/XQuiUGikzxI1ol_wIjZGLJ59i5QUl1J7QCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/New%2BLook%2B6013%2Bsage%2Bgreen%2Bjacket%2Bback%2B%25282%2529.jpg" title="A lady with red hair with her back turned to the camera to show the back of a mint green jacket" /></a></div><br /><p>I made faux welt pockets because the jacket is so cropped it's unlikely I'll ever put my hands in them and the pocket bags would be so shallow anyway. The welts add a bit of interest to the front and even though I was worried they sit too close to the hemline I think overall they still looked balanced.</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6sP7WehMj44/X6vC-iJ0FDI/AAAAAAAALHg/wWzUpBEYvPkO-SN4RGDe7G6YptCsrb_kQCLcBGAsYHQ/s560/New%2BLook%2B6013%2Bsage%2Bgreen%2Bjacket%2Bwelt%2Bpocket%2B%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="New Look 6013 mint green jacket www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" border="0" data-original-height="373" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6sP7WehMj44/X6vC-iJ0FDI/AAAAAAAALHg/wWzUpBEYvPkO-SN4RGDe7G6YptCsrb_kQCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/New%2BLook%2B6013%2Bsage%2Bgreen%2Bjacket%2Bwelt%2Bpocket%2B%25282%2529.jpg" title="A close up photo of the welt pocket and bottom hem of a mint green jacket" /></a></div><br /><p>The final change I made to the pattern was to insert a lining. The pattern is meant to be an unlined jacket, but with several layers of interfacing in key places like the shoulder area, princess seams that need to be clipped to be pressed open and the messiness of welt pockets I think a lining is really necessary to cover up all that internal structure. Plus being a wool jacket it will wear better with a slippery lining.</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7-ccNrRyxI8/X6vEVxRAPvI/AAAAAAAALHs/tkTlWnZaaqQicekByUDDsuxlj_Y8qAlHgCLcBGAsYHQ/s689/New%2BLook%2B6013%2Bsage%2Bgreen%2Bjacket%2Blining%2B%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="New Look 6013 mint green jacket www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" border="0" data-original-height="689" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7-ccNrRyxI8/X6vEVxRAPvI/AAAAAAAALHs/tkTlWnZaaqQicekByUDDsuxlj_Y8qAlHgCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/New%2BLook%2B6013%2Bsage%2Bgreen%2Bjacket%2Blining%2B%25281%2529.jpg" title="A lady holding open a jacket to display the inner lining" /></a></div><br /><p>This fabric was a total bargain - bought from the Sewing Basket charity fabric store earlier this year for a few dollars. When I spied this fabric in it's beautiful minty loveliness, I was reminded of one of my favourite costumes from the movie The Dressmaker:</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oJkUeqLye4Y/X6vFLNK1ZqI/AAAAAAAALH0/OcJmj6_-7x88VHjj_Hg2a6kdaBqOAchrACLcBGAsYHQ/s700/dressmaker_dungatar_women.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="A photo from the movie of The Dressmaker" border="0" data-original-height="411" data-original-width="700" height="376" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oJkUeqLye4Y/X6vFLNK1ZqI/AAAAAAAALH0/OcJmj6_-7x88VHjj_Hg2a6kdaBqOAchrACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h376/dressmaker_dungatar_women.jpg" title="a photo showing the female characters posing from the movie The Dressmaker" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div>All I need now is some cream wide leg pants and an awesome hat and I'll be set for a glamorous return to the office when it reopens! After all these months of casual wear whilst working from home I'm actually quite eager for a bit of dressing up on the few days a week that I'll be in the office.<div><br /></div><div>So my final thoughts: if you like a bit of drama then I can highly recommend this pattern to you! The shawl collar is easy to construct, the princess seams make it easy to fit and overall it's quite a nice little jacket. If like me you prefer your clothes to be a bit more subdued, the sleeve is easily interchanged and you can still have a great jacket without the wow factor.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MlB5QHCl9_g/X6vGXkzOKyI/AAAAAAAALIA/AH3dsVzMzKMs20IzADZCS53QNvOrAAjNwCLcBGAsYHQ/s574/New%2BLook%2B6014%2Bsage%2Bgreen%2Bjacket%2Bfront%2B%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="New Look 6013 mint green jacket www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" border="0" data-original-height="574" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MlB5QHCl9_g/X6vGXkzOKyI/AAAAAAAALIA/AH3dsVzMzKMs20IzADZCS53QNvOrAAjNwCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/New%2BLook%2B6014%2Bsage%2Bgreen%2Bjacket%2Bfront%2B%25281%2529.jpg" title="A lady posing in a mint green jacket with her hand on her hip" /></a></div><br /><div><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p> </p><p><br /></p></div>Kristy Chanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07385704380789244157noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5916038188571690726.post-73622783395177519332020-09-15T13:07:00.000+10:002020-09-15T13:07:02.099+10:00Brain busting dress: McCalls 7429<p>I don't often sew with knits but other sewists rave about how quick and simple they are for projects. So I thought I would whip out a quick long sleeved dress whilst it is still cool here in Sydney, not that I have any where to wear it or any compelling reason for making a new dress other than for the fun of it!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-atB9qkSwDmc/X1my5UbjgGI/AAAAAAAALCM/iV-N7u6e4ZALDQ1KEOa6YTZqHJGUKDa1gCLcBGAsYHQ/s704/mcCalls%2B7429%2Bblue%2Bdress%2Bfront%2B3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="white lady posing in a blue dress with red shoes in a lounge room" border="0" data-original-height="704" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-atB9qkSwDmc/X1my5UbjgGI/AAAAAAAALCM/iV-N7u6e4ZALDQ1KEOa6YTZqHJGUKDa1gCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/mcCalls%2B7429%2Bblue%2Bdress%2Bfront%2B3.jpg" title="McCalls 7429 blue twist front dress www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><p>However, the joke was on me because this dress was not quick, simple or fun to make. At all. I like to think I'm pretty experienced and skilled - I sew Burda regularly and manage with their befuddling instructions after all! But this pattern - McCalls 7429 - took all the brain power I could muster to get it finished. It's a fairly plain straight dress with a twist in the front:</p><p><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZGnxSO8Eocw/X1nD8TvGkGI/AAAAAAAALEg/LImBSL_YD547Yy8i-8wlLH9O0ZcZE27ZgCLcBGAsYHQ/s707/mccalls%2B7429.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img alt="front cover of a sewing pattern showing four different versions" border="0" data-original-height="707" data-original-width="514" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZGnxSO8Eocw/X1nD8TvGkGI/AAAAAAAALEg/LImBSL_YD547Yy8i-8wlLH9O0ZcZE27ZgCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/mccalls%2B7429.jpg" title="McCalls 7429 blue twist front dress www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;">The pictures in the instructions and the text telling me to "pleat in fullness on lower portion of the front to fit between large circles on upper left front" just did not click for me.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-glPBbxOS4pE/X1m9NQTvUHI/AAAAAAAALDQ/ceEJ9bFAgz4ai7vzaGrmpeOsRDQ8sMmhACLcBGAsYHQ/s560/mccalls%2Binstructions.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="sewing instructions and diagrams for making a dress" border="0" data-original-height="420" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-glPBbxOS4pE/X1m9NQTvUHI/AAAAAAAALDQ/ceEJ9bFAgz4ai7vzaGrmpeOsRDQ8sMmhACLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/mccalls%2Binstructions.jpg" title="McCalls 7429 twist front dress www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;">Thankfully </span><a href="https://www.brittanyjjones.com/home/mccalls-7429" style="text-align: left;" target="_blank">Brittany Jones </a><span style="text-align: left;"> has done two blog posts and a video on how to construct this dress which was really helpful, but it still took me several attempts to figure out how to gather the fabric in the middle and sew the right seams together. In fact I had to unpick the seams a few times before I finally got it right - is there anything more tedious than unpicking a lightning stitch in a knit fabric? Happily once the front bit of the dress is sorted everything else is pretty easy to finish.</span></div><div><br /></div><div>It's also not very often that I don't recommend a pattern, but this is one of those times. Other people seem to like this pattern, but there are a few things that annoy me.</div><div><br /></div><div>Firstly, the wrap part of the lower front dress is not very wide and tends to flap open when I walk. Luckily the under layer extends almost the whole width of the skirt so you aren't flashing too much leg, but it is annoying having it flap around. Also, my fabric is white on the wrong side so it's pretty obvious when it flips to the outside: </div><div><br /><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0ntJnQ61Sns/X2AlsAiY7MI/AAAAAAAALFU/bdzJqjUVp_QZhyreCDaWxJH6QASSUhWYwCLcBGAsYHQ/s712/McCalls%2B7429%2Bblue%2Bdress%2Bside%2Bwrap.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="white lady wearing a blue dress holding the front wrap portion open" border="0" data-original-height="712" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0ntJnQ61Sns/X2AlsAiY7MI/AAAAAAAALFU/bdzJqjUVp_QZhyreCDaWxJH6QASSUhWYwCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/McCalls%2B7429%2Bblue%2Bdress%2Bside%2Bwrap.jpg" title="McCalls 7429 twist dress www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;">I also don't like how the gathers from the centre waist seam tend to bunch up between my breasts and form a pleat in the front. Maybe that's caused by my rather flat chest and the fabric not needing to be stretched open across the bust, but I feel that the gathers in the front just sit weirdly. </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-J03MdPjwLNA/X1m9y7QzH3I/AAAAAAAALDg/hFcQdP6lHVEf24foc5ZSnDG0KRjzkZD8QCLcBGAsYHQ/s702/mcCalls%2B7429%2Bblue%2Bdress%2Bfront%2B1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="white lady posing in a blue dress with a twisted front" border="0" data-original-height="702" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-J03MdPjwLNA/X1m9y7QzH3I/AAAAAAAALDg/hFcQdP6lHVEf24foc5ZSnDG0KRjzkZD8QCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/mcCalls%2B7429%2Bblue%2Bdress%2Bfront%2B1.jpg" title="McCalls 7429 blue twist front dress www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The gathers and twist at the front of the dress create a bit of bulk over my stomach, which is one area I don't need to add any bulk to right at the moment. The fabric I've used was advertised online as a ponte, but it's rather thin and more like a double knit. I think a thicker fabric like a firm ponte would be even worse, and it's probably best to stick with thinner fabrics for this pattern.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Hrz6Fu-IMTU/X1nCyvVefiI/AAAAAAAALEM/aMWup-CeTwoZwGVd25QM-UQlkOxHImepwCLcBGAsYHQ/s759/mccalls%2B7429%2Bblue%2Bdress%2Bside.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="a side view of a white woman wearing a blue dress" border="0" data-original-height="759" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Hrz6Fu-IMTU/X1nCyvVefiI/AAAAAAAALEM/aMWup-CeTwoZwGVd25QM-UQlkOxHImepwCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/mccalls%2B7429%2Bblue%2Bdress%2Bside.jpg" title="McCalls 7429 blue twist front dress www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Finally (as if all that above wasn't enough moaning!) I find this dress to be really short. I'm only average in height, and I was surprised when the raw length of this dress without the hem turned up barely reached my knees. The pattern envelope (I know, I know - you should always be sceptical about those!) shows the model's dress hitting her knees so I expected the dress to be a little longer on me. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">So all in all, this is not one of my favourite patterns and I probably won't make it again. I'm sure Burda have done a similar style, and while their instructions are probably just as likely to be as confusing I'd rather take a chance with their drafting than use this pattern again if I feel like I need another twist front dress in my wardrobe!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7iMd54KkJ_E/X1nEbwwL_BI/AAAAAAAALEo/p2t3tul8PksHYYPsUkjw2cMTYUJb81xXgCLcBGAsYHQ/s665/mcCalls%2B7429%2Bblue%2Bdress%2Bfront%2B2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="white woman posing in a blue twist front dress wearing red shoes standing in a lounge room" border="0" data-original-height="665" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7iMd54KkJ_E/X1nEbwwL_BI/AAAAAAAALEo/p2t3tul8PksHYYPsUkjw2cMTYUJb81xXgCLcBGAsYHQ/s16000/mcCalls%2B7429%2Bblue%2Bdress%2Bfront%2B2.jpg" title="McCalls 7429 blue twist front dress www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /></div>Kristy Chanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07385704380789244157noreply@blogger.com18tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5916038188571690726.post-30497026466136165952020-08-09T21:26:00.002+10:002020-08-09T21:26:49.879+10:00Ready for summer - wide leg linen pants<p>I had absolutely no reason to make a pair of summery linen pants since we've had torrential rain and cold weather lately (which is great, because we need all the rain we can get!). But since I'm at home going nowhere with more clothes than I currently need why not make whatever takes your fancy? Plus I know the warm weather is only just around the corner and this time I'll be ready if I ever go back to working in an office, going out with friends or just doing anything other than working from home.</p><p><br /></p><p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uttVkShbK2w/Xy_S_-dB8lI/AAAAAAAAK-8/38z1bptKOIoDAMEb2is2xwXNWXMqb4tZACLcBGAsYHQ/s654/pink%2Blinen%2Bburda%2Bpants%2Bfront%2B1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="display: inline !important; padding: 1em 0px;"><img alt="pink linen wide leg pants Burda 10/2016 #113 www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" border="0" data-original-height="654" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uttVkShbK2w/Xy_S_-dB8lI/AAAAAAAAK-8/38z1bptKOIoDAMEb2is2xwXNWXMqb4tZACLcBGAsYHQ/d/pink%2Blinen%2Bburda%2Bpants%2Bfront%2B1.jpg" title="a woman wearing pink pants and a white top standing in a lounge room" /></a></p><p><br /></p><p>These are Burda 10/2016 #113, which I first made as one of my Burda of the month challenge projects:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Pll8JNACOBo/Xy_TPfNNfUI/AAAAAAAAK_A/PFgwZ6xtJ-wJO7_mbBeLZiVh8SSQbXqyQCLcBGAsYHQ/s565/burda%2B10%2B2016%2B%2523113%2Bpattern%2Bpic.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="Burda 10/2016 #113 wide leg pants" border="0" data-original-height="565" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Pll8JNACOBo/Xy_TPfNNfUI/AAAAAAAAK_A/PFgwZ6xtJ-wJO7_mbBeLZiVh8SSQbXqyQCLcBGAsYHQ/d/burda%2B10%2B2016%2B%2523113%2Bpattern%2Bpic.jpg" title="a picture of model wearing pants and a drawing of the sewing pattern" /></a></div><p>After years of wearing skinny pants, it does feel strange but also freeing to wear wide leg pants. Thankfully these aren't too wide - more just a straight leg from the hips down.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZcILmO2AkA0/Xy_Uc7WvEII/AAAAAAAAK_Q/361iMu0BkboOi_U8Vn_-HXlKVXa6xsV2gCLcBGAsYHQ/s656/pink%2Blinen%2Bburda%2Bpants%2Bfront%2B2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="pink linen wide leg pants Burda 10/2016 #113 www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" border="0" data-original-height="656" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZcILmO2AkA0/Xy_Uc7WvEII/AAAAAAAAK_Q/361iMu0BkboOi_U8Vn_-HXlKVXa6xsV2gCLcBGAsYHQ/d/pink%2Blinen%2Bburda%2Bpants%2Bfront%2B2.jpg" /></a></div><p>A few years ago I was on a mission to perfect pants fitting and used a whole 10m bolt of calico making multiple muslins and I still didn't make a pair I liked. I've realised that wide leg pants like these suit my lumpy legs best the fabric just hangs straight down, but still every time I make pants I continue to make fitting adjustments.</p><p><br /></p><p>This time I used the crotch curve of the largest size but the leg and waist sizes in my normal size, and I also increased the height of the back rise by adding a wedge and spreading the dart open to keep the crotch curve correct - I didn't do this properly last time and it made the pants gape open at the back. I've read so many resources on pants fitting I can't remember where I learnt this from, but this is what it looks like:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SFZ4NgoM9Ho/Xy_V1SMAziI/AAAAAAAAK_c/kDovH-2Wq0MhaPIaAnX1YgouWOsMev9fACLcBGAsYHQ/s560/pink%2Blinen%2Bburda%2Bpants%2Bpattern%2Badjustment.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="pants fitting adjustment to increase the height of the back Burda 10/2016 #113 www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" border="0" data-original-height="393" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SFZ4NgoM9Ho/Xy_V1SMAziI/AAAAAAAAK_c/kDovH-2Wq0MhaPIaAnX1YgouWOsMev9fACLcBGAsYHQ/d/pink%2Blinen%2Bburda%2Bpants%2Bpattern%2Badjustment.jpg" /></a></div><p>I do love the wide curved waistband - it's quite comfortable and sits over my mum tum because these are high waist pants (well probably at the natural waistline which feels high to me!).</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-m4Cv3A85PUE/Xy_WUAXiocI/AAAAAAAAK_k/Cbn_4AZ2HXg3S86p60eSTaNCoIaE59utACLcBGAsYHQ/s769/pink%2Blinen%2Bburda%2Bpants%2Bwaistband.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="pink linen wide leg pants Burda 10/2016 #113 www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" border="0" data-original-height="769" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-m4Cv3A85PUE/Xy_WUAXiocI/AAAAAAAAK_k/Cbn_4AZ2HXg3S86p60eSTaNCoIaE59utACLcBGAsYHQ/d/pink%2Blinen%2Bburda%2Bpants%2Bwaistband.jpg" /></a></div><p>And how nice is this white top? I bought it from an op shop without even trying it on thinking I could salvage the fabric for a refashion but it turns out it fits perfectly and looks smashing with these pants:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TwnL1yYGmnk/Xy_W3hLT-NI/AAAAAAAAK_w/oDaA5fdREdY4ZIrQ1T1holetb6vbaTauACLcBGAsYHQ/s749/pink%2Blinen%2Bburda%2Bpants%2Bfront%2B4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="pink linen wide leg pants Burda 10/2016 #113 www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" border="0" data-original-height="749" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TwnL1yYGmnk/Xy_W3hLT-NI/AAAAAAAAK_w/oDaA5fdREdY4ZIrQ1T1holetb6vbaTauACLcBGAsYHQ/d/pink%2Blinen%2Bburda%2Bpants%2Bfront%2B4.jpg" /></a></div><p>The only thing I'm not sure on is the length of these worn with heels - these days I tend to wear flat shoes most of the time so that's the length I hemmed these to. They are perfect when worn with sneakers and flat sandals, so I guess that's what I'll have to wear with these pants</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HRS83zA6h8w/Xy_YIJb4r5I/AAAAAAAALAI/SuoZXh3s1FAwSF9Sz4yjDLsG2lmgep5VgCLcBGAsYHQ/s689/pink%2Blinen%2Bburda%2Bpants%2Bcasual%2Bside.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="pink linen wide leg pants Burda 10/2016 #113 www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" border="0" data-original-height="689" data-original-width="560" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HRS83zA6h8w/Xy_YIJb4r5I/AAAAAAAALAI/SuoZXh3s1FAwSF9Sz4yjDLsG2lmgep5VgCLcBGAsYHQ/w520-h640/pink%2Blinen%2Bburda%2Bpants%2Bcasual%2Bside.jpg" width="520" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GCZqmNGOgAw/Xy_YHsxNrSI/AAAAAAAALAA/z1CfzDHleZ4756GR_XuAGHp_yg9J_R3tACLcBGAsYHQ/s689/pink%2Blinen%2Bburda%2Bpants%2Bcasual%2Bfront.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="pink linen wide leg pants Burda 10/2016 #113 www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" border="0" data-original-height="689" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GCZqmNGOgAw/Xy_YHsxNrSI/AAAAAAAALAA/z1CfzDHleZ4756GR_XuAGHp_yg9J_R3tACLcBGAsYHQ/d/pink%2Blinen%2Bburda%2Bpants%2Bcasual%2Bfront.jpg" /></a></div><p>It's not often that I make pants and like how they look, but this pattern is a winner in my books. I've made these two times previously - firstly in 2016 in a <a href="http://loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com/2016/11/burda-of-month-102016-113-w-i-d-e-leg.html" target="_blank">white pinstripe cotton</a> that sadly no longer fit and then again in 2018 in <a href="http://loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com/2018/08/finally-pair-of-pants-that-fit-me.html" target="_blank">paprika linen</a> which I do still wear frequently.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vruF1NPBms4/Xy_ZGzmOTSI/AAAAAAAALAc/Aoj4IRGiI-ohAZIEarNjI1NU5Siqy2IxgCLcBGAsYHQ/s907/burda%2B10%2B2016%2B%2523113%2Bwide%2Bleg%2Bpants%2Bfront%2B4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="white wide leg pants Burda 10/2016 #113 www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" border="0" data-original-height="907" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vruF1NPBms4/Xy_ZGzmOTSI/AAAAAAAALAc/Aoj4IRGiI-ohAZIEarNjI1NU5Siqy2IxgCLcBGAsYHQ/d/burda%2B10%2B2016%2B%2523113%2Bwide%2Bleg%2Bpants%2Bfront%2B4.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8badofXBQPo/Xy_byBfNlnI/AAAAAAAALA0/tut7JgFxPe4xm4m0wgR69II1q23ZwXh5gCLcBGAsYHQ/s827/burda%2B10%2B2016%2Bwide%2Bleg%2Bpants%2Bfront%2B4.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="paprika linen wide leg pants Burda 10/2016 #113 www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" border="0" data-original-height="827" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8badofXBQPo/Xy_byBfNlnI/AAAAAAAALA0/tut7JgFxPe4xm4m0wgR69II1q23ZwXh5gCLcBGAsYHQ/d/burda%2B10%2B2016%2Bwide%2Bleg%2Bpants%2Bfront%2B4.JPG" /></a></div><p style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;">I never thought I'd be wearing and loving a pair of pale pink linen pants but it turns out that pink is a neutral that goes with just about any colour. As much as I love winter and the cold weather, I'm slightly looking forward to summer now so I can start wearing these pants out more than just the quick dash to the supermarket I did today!</span></p><p style="text-align: center;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-icdic7U5vZk/Xy_c9he0caI/AAAAAAAALBA/gBvn8nOeDnUeiWKZ8qgMQmPopDcc6vp6gCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/pink%2Blinen%2Bburda%2Bpants%2Bfront%2B3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img alt="http://loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com/2016/11/burda-of-month-102016-113-w-i-d-e-leg.html" border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-icdic7U5vZk/Xy_c9he0caI/AAAAAAAALBA/gBvn8nOeDnUeiWKZ8qgMQmPopDcc6vp6gCLcBGAsYHQ/d/pink%2Blinen%2Bburda%2Bpants%2Bfront%2B3.jpg" /></a></div><span style="text-align: left;"><br /></span><p></p>Kristy Chanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07385704380789244157noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5916038188571690726.post-16774194743563014592020-08-01T21:15:00.000+10:002020-08-01T21:15:13.609+10:00Cozy winter dress - Simplicity 8014It's the middle of winter here in the southern hemisphere, although it doesn't <i>really </i>get that cold in Sydney which means anytime of the year is the right time for a new dress! Especially when it's made from a brushed cotton / flannelette (are they one and the same?)<div><br /><div><div style="text-align: center;"><img alt="black and white check shirt dress simplicity 8014 www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" border="0" data-original-height="843" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Rf1cr2szyZY/XyVDvMi1V5I/AAAAAAAAK8k/3i34IC9XN4QyiLtK6l9Dn2xhYzCx1cUKwCLcBGAsYHQ/d/s8014%2Bfront%2B4.jpg" title="a woman wearing a black and white dress standing in front of a multi coloured wall" /></div><div><br /></div><div><div>It's not very often that I make all the versions of a pattern, but <a href="https://www.simplicity.com/simplicity-storefront-catalog/patterns/women/dresses/simplicity-pattern-8014-misses-shirt-dress/" target="_blank">Simplicity 8014</a> is firming up as a favourite pattern for both of its styles of shirt dresses. I've made two versions of view A/B with a full skirt and now I've made view C. Literally I have made view C - even using the same fabric as the illustration!</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XLJv0OKZRaQ/XyVGvQSQ1bI/AAAAAAAAK9U/N6klu50F1JAjh_mVH_P5-pUFsHiTrq4twCLcBGAsYHQ/s500/simplicity-dresses-pattern-8014-envelope-front.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="500" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XLJv0OKZRaQ/XyVGvQSQ1bI/AAAAAAAAK9U/N6klu50F1JAjh_mVH_P5-pUFsHiTrq4twCLcBGAsYHQ/s0/simplicity-dresses-pattern-8014-envelope-front.jpg" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>I wasn't sure how this pattern would turn out because I know with my wide hips and smaller waist that patterns with a waist seam work best and look the most flattering on me. So I cut the pattern out a size larger than I needed below the waist to make sure that it would flow and drape around my widest part rather than strain across my hips and thighs. So it's a little wider than the pattern illustration but still not as wide as the full skirt version of this pattern. </div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div></div></div></div><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0 0 0 40px; padding: 0px;"><div><div><div><div style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oPLgkMPQiL8/XyVDwc_FmxI/AAAAAAAAK80/oiwOmeOrKroh0R3t2RsVQv-F94loP5EdQCLcBGAsYHQ/s899/s8014%2Bfront%2B6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img alt="black and white check shirt dress simplicity 8014 www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" border="0" data-original-height="899" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oPLgkMPQiL8/XyVDwc_FmxI/AAAAAAAAK80/oiwOmeOrKroh0R3t2RsVQv-F94loP5EdQCLcBGAsYHQ/d/s8014%2Bfront%2B6.jpg" /></a></div></div></div></div></blockquote><div><div> </div><div>Without a belt it doesn't look too frumpy, but it does have serious night gown vibes so I think I'll stick to wearing a belt with it.</div><div><br /></div></div><blockquote style="border: none; margin: 0 0 0 40px; padding: 0px;"><div><div style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-37Ic0uKtCQo/XyVDwXuQsNI/AAAAAAAAK8w/ZAIvz6ctzzcanWpiAMHyEenDvyCcsjxKACLcBGAsYHQ/s891/s8014%2Bfront%2B7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img alt="black and white check shirt dress simplicity 8014 www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" border="0" data-original-height="891" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-37Ic0uKtCQo/XyVDwXuQsNI/AAAAAAAAK8w/ZAIvz6ctzzcanWpiAMHyEenDvyCcsjxKACLcBGAsYHQ/d/s8014%2Bfront%2B7.jpg" /></a></div></div></blockquote><div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><img alt="black and white check shirt dress simplicity 8014 www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" border="0" data-original-height="891" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tBuCKaNKJUo/XyVDwLy1ydI/AAAAAAAAK8s/-BBc_sn65Ls12rOg2mp8r0p6SG2FIYvIQCLcBGAsYHQ/d/s8014%2Bfront%2B5.jpg" /></div><div><br /></div><div>I really like the button tab on the sleeves to wear them folded up - it makes it look a bit more casual. </div><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FjLBbpolPGE/XyVDveSKhZI/AAAAAAAAK8o/mi-BqQgIWAM2qQaOIJ_WrxIwmGP879tBQCLcBGAsYHQ/s845/s8014%2Bfront%2B2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="black and white check shirt dress simplicity 8014 www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" border="0" data-original-height="845" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FjLBbpolPGE/XyVDveSKhZI/AAAAAAAAK8o/mi-BqQgIWAM2qQaOIJ_WrxIwmGP879tBQCLcBGAsYHQ/d/s8014%2Bfront%2B2.jpg" /></a></div><br /></div></div><div>And even though I intended this as a casual dress I couldn't help but match the plaids - it makes my eyes twitch when it doesn't work out but thankfully on this dress it did. After pre-washing this fabric it was really off grain so I had to iron it back into shape which I'm glad I did because all those seams match. Not on the shoulder seam though - matching sleeves to the bodice is super super hard!</div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OS7U-GRTcMk/XyVMkh3lRWI/AAAAAAAAK9g/cOUd0D9eq6MYBO4ktZwVEHWiYT4xZ5iBwCLcBGAsYHQ/s847/simplicity%2B8014%2Bside.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="black and white check shirt dress simplicity 8014 www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" border="0" data-original-height="847" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OS7U-GRTcMk/XyVMkh3lRWI/AAAAAAAAK9g/cOUd0D9eq6MYBO4ktZwVEHWiYT4xZ5iBwCLcBGAsYHQ/d/simplicity%2B8014%2Bside.jpg" /></a></div> </div><div>I think I've really got my money's worth out of this pattern, especially since I would have bought it during one a pattern sale. I can definitely see a few more of these dresses in both versions in my future.</div><div><br /></div>Kristy Chanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07385704380789244157noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5916038188571690726.post-47700153328952814002020-07-24T21:43:00.000+10:002020-07-24T21:43:30.126+10:00So simple: Tessuti amara vestAfter finishing that tailored green jacket I needed to make something really quick and simple - the <a href="https://www.tessuti-shop.com/collections/digital-download-pattern-tops/products/amara-vest-pattern-1" target="_blank">Amara </a>vest by Tessuti patterns was just the thing. It probably took me longer to print out and assemble the pattern than it actually did to sew it!<div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-D1y9xPg2KKw/Xxpc7Em5C-I/AAAAAAAAK6w/XH3iNVPQ3g4Epc0TjwyA79ytpjSOmfsWwCLcBGAsYHQ/s840/amara%2Bvest.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img alt="A woman modelling a plum coloured vest worn over a white shirt" border="0" data-original-height="840" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-D1y9xPg2KKw/Xxpc7Em5C-I/AAAAAAAAK6w/XH3iNVPQ3g4Epc0TjwyA79ytpjSOmfsWwCLcBGAsYHQ/d/amara%2Bvest.jpg" title="Amara vest in plum wool www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>It's a very shapeless and boxy style but still drapes quite well so it doesn't make me look like a child in adults clothing. I made the smallest size and while it's quite wide across the body which is only really noticeable when my arms are up, but luckily I don't need to use my arms robot style too often:</div><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WTK3GfPsHeE/Xxpc54cyXOI/AAAAAAAAK6s/B2vRoiP8Q_4d2smwCmOjzO8NB6qaHVptwCLcBGAsYHQ/s746/amara%2Bvest%2Barms%2Bup.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="A woman lifting her arms to show the width of the wool vest" border="0" data-original-height="746" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WTK3GfPsHeE/Xxpc54cyXOI/AAAAAAAAK6s/B2vRoiP8Q_4d2smwCmOjzO8NB6qaHVptwCLcBGAsYHQ/d/amara%2Bvest%2Barms%2Bup.jpg" title="Amara vest in plum wool www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>The fabric I used is a felted wool bought from <a href="https://a2f.com.au/" target="_blank">Addicted to Fabric</a> in Canberra last year on a road trip with some Sydney Spoolettes to see an exhibition on the costumes from movie The Dressmaker. This pattern is exactly the project I had in mind when I bought this fabric, I just had to wait a while for someone to draft a pattern for me! </div><div><br /></div><div>Because the wool is felted I knew it wasn't going to fray, so I've left the bottom hem unfinished and instead of binding the neckline and sleeves I just sewed on strips of the fabric and left them on the right side. I was going to turn them to the inside and topstitch them down, but I quite like the look of the bands even though they are roughly cut so I decided to make a feature of it instead.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AIv5-yMzfAw/XxpgX8nbuVI/AAAAAAAAK7E/JesMqu15HxY2wkj6DzC0LMOdLuhJ9WmoQCLcBGAsYHQ/s560/neckline.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="a close up shot of a neckline of a wool vest" border="0" data-original-height="420" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AIv5-yMzfAw/XxpgX8nbuVI/AAAAAAAAK7E/JesMqu15HxY2wkj6DzC0LMOdLuhJ9WmoQCLcBGAsYHQ/d/neckline.jpg" title="Amara plum wool felted vest neckline www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><img alt="a close up shot of the sleeve of a plum wool vest and a white shirt" border="0" data-original-height="678" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-u6L3u86ZzHg/Xxpc7DWGqDI/AAAAAAAAK60/8cr3O9ZCUN89_eaEVtfTzZyJqEkFdNBZACLcBGAsYHQ/d/sleeve%2Bfinish.jpg" title="Amara plum wool felted vest neckline www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></div><div><br /></div><div>The shirt I'm wearing underneath is one I made a few years ago but never blogged for some reason. It's made from a vintage Simplicity pattern:</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RwWJhDE0THY/XxqN-o7Hl6I/AAAAAAAAK7Y/q9J6NRAt5L8vxO0oRE7gDkGbwiL69JNVgCLcBGAsYHQ/s846/Simplicity%2B6648.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="photograph of an old sewing pattern cover showing four different styles of shirts" border="0" data-original-height="846" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RwWJhDE0THY/XxqN-o7Hl6I/AAAAAAAAK7Y/q9J6NRAt5L8vxO0oRE7gDkGbwiL69JNVgCLcBGAsYHQ/d/Simplicity%2B6648.jpg" title="Vintage sewing pattern simplicity 6648" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Given that it's a learn to sew pattern it was super simple. The fabric is a crisp stretch cotton, and I found some black and white buttons which is just perfect for the fabric.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aYQtreqJNGI/XxqdukiBDtI/AAAAAAAAK7s/DSxC6xj71cI5qIuJEYyN4JJlZ1sLz9YfwCLcBGAsYHQ/s840/white%2Bshirt%2Bfront%2B2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="a lady wearing a white and black polka dot shirt" border="0" data-original-height="840" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aYQtreqJNGI/XxqdukiBDtI/AAAAAAAAK7s/DSxC6xj71cI5qIuJEYyN4JJlZ1sLz9YfwCLcBGAsYHQ/d/white%2Bshirt%2Bfront%2B2.jpg" title="black and white polka dot shirt www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>I even managed to find some photos from three years with the same jeans - they are a bit blacker than they are now, I'm about 5kg lighter and I was still taller than my children. The good old days!</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-miGe6sjptww/Xxqduk-aO3I/AAAAAAAAK7k/MQLa_StiAv42kOaMvIJtqE4deyeQKumZgCLcBGAsYHQ/s795/white%2Bshirt%2Bfront.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="a lady wearing black jeans and a white shirt standing in front of a wrought iron door" border="0" data-original-height="795" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-miGe6sjptww/Xxqduk-aO3I/AAAAAAAAK7k/MQLa_StiAv42kOaMvIJtqE4deyeQKumZgCLcBGAsYHQ/d/white%2Bshirt%2Bfront.jpg" title="Amara plum wool felted vest neckline www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sevaP7OuN6o/XxqdujSXNsI/AAAAAAAAK7o/8H81IM0PI_MGFumr_QQuYv4WhMCKcIIdQCLcBGAsYHQ/s560/white%2Bshirt%2Bmural.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="a photo of a woman and two children in front of a colourful wall mural" border="0" data-original-height="420" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sevaP7OuN6o/XxqdujSXNsI/AAAAAAAAK7o/8H81IM0PI_MGFumr_QQuYv4WhMCKcIIdQCLcBGAsYHQ/d/white%2Bshirt%2Bmural.jpg" title="Amara plum wool felted vest neckline www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>So all in all a lightning quick but great project. It's surprising warm wearing a wool layer even though it's sleeveless. It might be my inner nanna coming out, but I do like a comfy vest so I can see a few more of these vests in my future.</div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IopS3n0XtIg/Xxpc5wnBgNI/AAAAAAAAK6o/B4oYrlkCTUQXR7GQR0NVzpLaUpzZoA8MACLcBGAsYHQ/s735/amara%2Bvest%2Bfront.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="woman standing beside a fence" border="0" data-original-height="735" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IopS3n0XtIg/Xxpc5wnBgNI/AAAAAAAAK6o/B4oYrlkCTUQXR7GQR0NVzpLaUpzZoA8MACLcBGAsYHQ/d/amara%2Bvest%2Bfront.jpg" title="Amara plum wool felted vest neckline www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><br /> </div></div>Kristy Chanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07385704380789244157noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5916038188571690726.post-27221796582365788812020-07-15T22:31:00.000+10:002020-07-15T22:31:23.262+10:00Green + BlueI thought that being at home practically all the time now would mean I would have lots more time for sewing and blogging but it turns out that I don't! I am super busy with work at the moment, and most days I barely brush my hair (messy bun for the win) and only slap on tinted sunscreen so it's even harder to take photos than before.<br />
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Case in point is this green blazer I finished sewing two weeks ago - I only just found the energy to put on some make-up and real shoes to take these photos today!<br />
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I bought this beautiful vibrant kelly green wool boucle from <a href="https://supercheapfabrics.com.au/" target="_blank">Super Cheap Fabrics</a> online and it turned out to be exactly the colour I hoped. I was inspired by this outfit worn by Peggy in episode 11 of the final season of Mad Men:<br />
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I used an old Burda pattern - 4/2014 #103 which isn't available on the Burda Style website but you can download from the Russian Burda website <a href="https://burdastyle.ua/models/zhinocha-moda/zhakety/bleyzery/zhaket-typu-bleyzer-prykrashenyy-tasmoyu" target="_blank">here </a>(I often buy my patterns from the Russian website because they are far cheaper).<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Q3WvZAyY4AI/Xw7u8V5OxsI/AAAAAAAAK3g/VP3iytzspMgc66NFBHugHQe2pkzZmoE3gCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/burda%2B4_2014%2B103%2Bjacket.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="457" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Q3WvZAyY4AI/Xw7u8V5OxsI/AAAAAAAAK3g/VP3iytzspMgc66NFBHugHQe2pkzZmoE3gCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/burda%2B4_2014%2B103%2Bjacket.jpg" title="Burda 4/2014 #103 blazer sewing pattern" /></a></div>
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This pattern caught my eye because it has the notched lapel and trim like the inspiration photo, but I also really like the curved front hem and the princess seams that extend into the shoulder which make it easier to adjust the fit. I left off those patch pockets and also removed the vents at the back because I found that they stuck out awkwardly and they weren't needed for a close fit.<br />
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I did my usual fit adjustment of a 1.5cm forward shoulder adjustment and slightly narrowed the shoulder too. This fabric has enough loft and with interfacing in the shoulder area it didn't need a shoulder pad but still managed a neat fit through the shoulders.<br />
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I hand stitched the navy grosgrain ribbon on which was really tough on my fingers but I thought I'd have more control doing it that way. I tried to make the corners as neat as possible but they aren't 45 degree angles so it took a little fudging to make it work. It looks a bit messy in this photo below but we all know that people don't stand close enough to see this level of detail, especially now that we're all social distancing.<br />
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The buttons were also really difficult to resolve. I just couldn't find any that matched the colour of the grosgrain ribbon in my local stores, so I ended up making fabric covered buttons for the two front ones, and some smaller navy blue buttons that were already in my stash for the sleeve buttons.<br />
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I absolutely love this jacket and colour and I almost can't wait to be back in the office so I can wear it for real.<br />
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For these photos I've paired the jacket with a navy blue dress. Navy blue just seems natural to wear with this colour jacket especially since I used navy blue trim and buttons!<br />
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I made this dress maybe two years ago but haven't blogged it. It's made from a 1970s vintage Style pattern:<br />
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The fit is quite good but the fabric choice wasn't the best. The fabric is a thick herringbone cotton that doesn't drape so it has quite a pronounced a-line shape to the skirt and it is a magnet for every bit of fluff, lint or strand of hair in near proximity.<br />
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I don't actually wear this dress too often and have been considering refashioning it into a skirt instead because the fabric is really quite nice (except for the fluff factor). And I think this pattern made in a more drapey fabric like crepe would work a lot better too. I'll add it to my really long list!<br />
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<br />Kristy Chanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07385704380789244157noreply@blogger.com20tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5916038188571690726.post-62976139899157491532020-06-20T12:00:00.000+10:002020-06-20T12:00:19.965+10:00Sweet + simple: Burda 11/2019 #105As the world is slowly emerging from Covid-19 social isolation bubbles, I am still working full time from home and will be for the foreseeable future. My employer, the NSW Government has decided that all back office public servants will keep working remotely to reduce the pressure on the public transport systems. Which suits me, because I quite like working from home especially now that my kids are back at school and my husband is back at his office!<br />
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I did re-evaluate my sewing plans because I don't need to be making corporate clothes since these days it's all casual. However I realise that what I like sewing the most is tailored and structured garments, so I'm going to keep on making them even if I won't be wearing them for a while yet.<br />
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I recently made three simple long sleeve blouses that will be perfect for layering under a blazer when I'm back in the office, but also work well for video conferencing even I'm wearing them with sweat pants. First version is from a very soft cotton voile with white polka dots:<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xMoSoSNRncA/Xu1osgtjM5I/AAAAAAAAK1I/5glIwpYrEZsju1Q8ijdrao6NFQoazEjpgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/pink%2Bspot%2Bburda%2Btop%2Bfront%2B2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="woman posing in a pale pink long sleeved top" border="0" data-original-height="762" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xMoSoSNRncA/Xu1osgtjM5I/AAAAAAAAK1I/5glIwpYrEZsju1Q8ijdrao6NFQoazEjpgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/pink%2Bspot%2Bburda%2Btop%2Bfront%2B2.JPG" title="burda 11/2019 #105 pink polka dot top www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div>
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Then I made a much brighter version in a glorious emerald green linen floral:<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QGyJTcg2GJE/Xu1pjSkji9I/AAAAAAAAK1o/a28S3aEZ0wIIHB0vMtbdOZeOkocpIRxMgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/green%2Bfloral%2Bburda%2Btop%2Bfront%2B1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="woman posing in a bright green floral top worn with a navy blue pencil skirt" border="0" data-original-height="788" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QGyJTcg2GJE/Xu1pjSkji9I/AAAAAAAAK1o/a28S3aEZ0wIIHB0vMtbdOZeOkocpIRxMgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/green%2Bfloral%2Bburda%2Btop%2Bfront%2B1.JPG" title="burda 11/2019 #105 green floral dot top www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div>
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And finally a version from a jumbo sized navy gingham which I cut on the bias for a bit of a difference:<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hZHYaClMhzs/Xu1prs8IhYI/AAAAAAAAK1s/qSwBPs5o9NYizxHj6KX9Qxa7DZvgyaD-wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/navy%2Bgingham%2Bburda%2Btop%2Bfront%2B1%2B%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="woman posing in a navy blue gingham top worn with a yellow necklace beside a timber fence" border="0" data-original-height="749" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hZHYaClMhzs/Xu1prs8IhYI/AAAAAAAAK1s/qSwBPs5o9NYizxHj6KX9Qxa7DZvgyaD-wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/navy%2Bgingham%2Bburda%2Btop%2Bfront%2B1%2B%25281%2529.jpg" title="burda 11/2019 #105 navy blue gingham top www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div>
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The pattern is <a href="https://www.burdastyle.com/satin-blouse-105-11-19.html" target="_blank">Burda 11/2019 #10</a>5 which is a really simple top with three pattern pieces - the front and back on the fold and the sleeves:<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mQnVW4vIOMI/Xu1qEPH5SaI/AAAAAAAAK14/xkFjA9DnSY0vBoSruLjbhCHBsRQ1AmmbwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/burda%2B11_2019%2B105%2Btop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="photo and technical drawing of a sewing pattern for a long sleeved top" border="0" data-original-height="362" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mQnVW4vIOMI/Xu1qEPH5SaI/AAAAAAAAK14/xkFjA9DnSY0vBoSruLjbhCHBsRQ1AmmbwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/burda%2B11_2019%2B105%2Btop.jpg" title="burda 11/2019 #105 top www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div>
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For each of my tops, I shifted the neckline opening to the back and drafted a facing instead of self fabric binding for the neckline. I find making and sewing binding for necklines really fiddly and I prefer the cleaner look of a facing.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rrO_-giM_HY/Xu1rDvpSMkI/AAAAAAAAK2M/rKmDRTnEDI4J6HU08XXFpdEe2gOLle3rACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/pink%2Bspot%2Bburda%2Btop%2Bback.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="close up photo of the back neckline of a womans top" border="0" data-original-height="840" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rrO_-giM_HY/Xu1rDvpSMkI/AAAAAAAAK2M/rKmDRTnEDI4J6HU08XXFpdEe2gOLle3rACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/pink%2Bspot%2Bburda%2Btop%2Bback.JPG" title="burda 11/2019 #105 pink polka dot top www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div>
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I really like the elastic cuffs to the sleeves - it brings in the volume of the sleeve nicely at the wrist which means it doesn't flap around and makes it possible to get the sleeve into a jacket when needed.<br />
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For the navy gingham version, cutting it on the bias made it slightly more difficult because I tried my best to pattern match. For some reason, I managed to get a good match on one side but not the other! I don't know how that happened, but as we all know hardly anyone else ever notices these things so I'm not too worried.<br />
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It's not often that I make the same pattern multiples time in a row, but this pattern seriously takes about 2 hours to make and only uses up slightly more than a metre of fabric so it's a good way to quickly turn fabric from the stash into something wearable.<br />
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<br />Kristy Chanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07385704380789244157noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5916038188571690726.post-45404037147929589882020-05-31T22:19:00.000+10:002020-05-31T22:19:58.620+10:00Simplicity 8014: my new favourite shirt dress<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2xKzKELX9VU/XtOZYewnDOI/AAAAAAAAKzE/k1mtJYtJlMMQ-ynIUXgylQq-8LtsFTsOwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/simplicity%2B8014%2Bblack%2Bdress%2Bfront%2B2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="a lady posing in a black shirt dress with leopard belt in front of a lounge room" border="0" data-original-height="806" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2xKzKELX9VU/XtOZYewnDOI/AAAAAAAAKzE/k1mtJYtJlMMQ-ynIUXgylQq-8LtsFTsOwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/simplicity%2B8014%2Bblack%2Bdress%2Bfront%2B2.jpg" title="Simplicity 8014 black linen shirt dress www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div>
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Earlier this year while it was still summer here in Australia I finally got around to making a pattern that had been in my stash for a while - <a href="https://www.simplicity.com/simplicity-storefront-catalog/patterns/women/dresses/simplicity-pattern-8014-misses-shirt-dress/" target="_blank">Simplicity 8014</a> shirt dress. If you google this pattern number it throws up many great dresses made by lots of other ladies, so I really don't know why I waited so long to make it.<br />
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This is quite a simple pattern with a few great variations:<br />
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I particularly like view A and B because that waist seam is a god send for those with sway backs, and the flared skirt is also great for a pear shape.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OrMf43d7hak/XtOZZ4R1C6I/AAAAAAAAKzI/ED9GiRw-tdEpfQjHIklSpkDBjnxykGl9QCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/simplicity%2B8014%2Bblack%2Bdress%2Bside.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="side view of a lady posing in a black shirt dress in a lounge room" border="0" data-original-height="808" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OrMf43d7hak/XtOZZ4R1C6I/AAAAAAAAKzI/ED9GiRw-tdEpfQjHIklSpkDBjnxykGl9QCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/simplicity%2B8014%2Bblack%2Bdress%2Bside.jpg" title="Simplicity 8014 black linen shirt dress www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div>
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I did a slight narrow shoulder and forward shoulder adjustment which I do to all patterns, and graded out from the bust to two sizes larger at the hips - all of which are pretty standard changes for me.<br />
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I've made this out of black heavy weight linen from The Fabric Store - it's really great quality and didn't lose any colour when I did a hot pre-wash to shrink it before sewing. Being linen it did wrinkle after a full day of wear in the office (back in the good old days when we went into our offices on the regular), but nothing too outrageous:<br />
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Before I made this version though I firstly made view B which is essentially exactly the same but it just has a mandarin collar made by leaving the collar off and just sewing on the collar stand. It makes it look quite different without a collar, probably because it seems natural to wear it buttoned up completely instead of open like the collared version:<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sbbkdqS4PaY/XtOZcOAGcAI/AAAAAAAAKzY/GpP2bNvwn34r0syfF4Dzbt9j2Chm3pYswCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/simplicity%2B8014%2Bblue%2Bfloral%2Bdress%2Bfront%2B2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="woman in a blue and red floral dress posing next to a pool" border="0" data-original-height="560" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sbbkdqS4PaY/XtOZcOAGcAI/AAAAAAAAKzY/GpP2bNvwn34r0syfF4Dzbt9j2Chm3pYswCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/simplicity%2B8014%2Bblue%2Bfloral%2Bdress%2Bfront%2B2.jpg" title="Simplicity 8014 blue floral linen shirt dress www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div>
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This fabric is also linen, bought online from <a href="https://supercheapfabrics.com.au/" target="_blank">Super Cheap Fabrics</a> that I bought during one of their sales. It's also great quality - the colours didn't run when I washed it and it has a great weight and opaqueness for a dress.<br />
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I didn't try to pattern match at all, but it's not obvious in this busy print. And even without wearing a belt this one sits nicely around my waist and the two small waist pleats (not darts) don't fluff out too much.<br />
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Please excuse the dirty pool in the above photos - these were taken in February while we were still having those awful bushfires and the slight amount of rain we got washed all the ash and dust into the pool and everywhere else. We're now having a wet May and with all else that has happened last summer feels like a lifetime ago.<br />
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So overall this is a really great pattern that I can highly recommend. I'm thinking about trying the other view as well because I think it would be a more casual style which would definitely suit these current times, but I'm not so sure it will look as good on my pear shape.Kristy Chanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07385704380789244157noreply@blogger.com14tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5916038188571690726.post-64798743075216135932020-05-24T19:44:00.000+10:002020-05-24T19:44:31.711+10:00I'm back! Meet Burda 11/2015 #112<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3hyU3OBQZcc/Xso4pl6EMZI/AAAAAAAAKxQ/VRiYE__DV2Yw7KSJnWugTcszTwYpcDCKQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/maroon%2Bplaid%2Btop%2B1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="woman posing on the side of the road in blue jeans and a maroon check top" border="0" data-original-height="747" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3hyU3OBQZcc/Xso4pl6EMZI/AAAAAAAAKxQ/VRiYE__DV2Yw7KSJnWugTcszTwYpcDCKQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/maroon%2Bplaid%2Btop%2B1.jpg" title="maroon plaid top with zipper Burda 11/2015 #112 www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div>
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When my enthusiasm for blogging petered out last year, I thought that would be the end of my blog. But someone emailed me recently to ask about a pattern I'd made many years ago and as I was scrolling through my old blog posts to find it I realised that I missed recording my rants and raves about various patterns as well as other snippets of things going on in my life. Instagram is good for a photo, but obviously you just can't capture the details of a pattern and project in that space, so here I am again!<br />
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These are strange times aren't they? I am very thankful that I am healthy and I still have my job when so many others have lost theirs due to the COVID-19 shutdown but I am busier than ever with work, two children to homeschool and a dog demanding pats all the time! Working from home has also forced a rethink in my wardrobe, as I don't have enough smart tops to wear and I can't be bothered putting on a dress for the camera.<br />
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Enter my latest project - a simple funnel neck top with a neckline zipper which helps get it over my head and adds a bit of interest. This fabric - a Marc Jacobs wool bought from the Fabric Store in Surry Hills a few years ago - has had a long journey into becoming this project. Firstly I made this fabric into a shapeless sweater dress but I really should have known better that shapeless looks like a literal sack on my curvy body so I pulled it apart and instead made it into a fitted dress with darts. Which was great until the next wash when the fabric shrunk a little more even though I did prewash and it became too tight to wear.<br />
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Finally, I've made it into a top using <a href="https://www.burdastyle.uk/crewneck-sweater-11-2015-112" target="_blank">Burda 11/2015 #112</a> and I plan to hand wash and stretch it into shape from now on in case it still has a bit more shrinking to do.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-w0vR_8VAimY/Xso5KXw8DbI/AAAAAAAAKx8/pmCa2c0Yz_03FA8p5O3z2PNs-Jm7RG9xgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/burda%2B11_2015%2Btop%2B112.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="technical drawing of a sewing pattern and a model wearing a top with zippered neck" border="0" data-original-height="560" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-w0vR_8VAimY/Xso5KXw8DbI/AAAAAAAAKx8/pmCa2c0Yz_03FA8p5O3z2PNs-Jm7RG9xgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/burda%2B11_2015%2Btop%2B112.jpg" title="Burda 11/2015 #112 pattern www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">images from <a href="http://burdastyle.com/">burdastyle.com</a></td></tr>
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The only changes I made to the pattern was to lengthen it by 5cm as it is a cropped length and I graded out to the next size below the waist. I really like the centre back seam even though I had to pattern match the plaid because it made it easy to get rid of that sway back pooling I often get.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RGUnWdjIt_U/Xso4pnuaRHI/AAAAAAAAKxo/izgBJyRGveYZpy9Fpdi_nmDacQ-ULSA_ACPcBGAYYCw/s1600/maroon%2Bplaid%2Btop%2Bback.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="photo of the back of a woman's top in maroon plaid" border="0" data-original-height="747" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RGUnWdjIt_U/Xso4pnuaRHI/AAAAAAAAKxo/izgBJyRGveYZpy9Fpdi_nmDacQ-ULSA_ACPcBGAYYCw/s1600/maroon%2Bplaid%2Btop%2Bback.jpg" title="maroon plaid top with zipper Burda 11/2015 #112 www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div>
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Although it's a simple pattern the Burda magazine has illustrated pattern instructions in the magazine. However (and here is my rant!) I don't think the method for the neck zip is the best way of doing it.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hoVO2AngQhs/Xso4rNcJCTI/AAAAAAAAKx4/bhxcEzZ4Sus6dqgTk4oIFoLbYxTVotx3wCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/maroon%2Bplaid%2Btop%2Binstructions.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="photo of sewing instructions from Burda magazine" border="0" data-original-height="365" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hoVO2AngQhs/Xso4rNcJCTI/AAAAAAAAKx4/bhxcEzZ4Sus6dqgTk4oIFoLbYxTVotx3wCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/maroon%2Bplaid%2Btop%2Binstructions.jpg" title="Burda 11/2015 #112 sewing instructions www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div>
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Essentially you sew cut the seam allowances off, sew the zipper tape on top, then hand sew the ends of the zipper tape together and sew the ribbon over the top of the zipper tapes. Doing it this way leaves a gap between the end of the zipper tape and the shoulder seam, unless my zipper tape is unusually short because I'm sure I transferred the mark from the pattern where the zipper stop goes correctly. I had to sew a small square of fabric to the underside to fill in that gap. I think a better method would be to sew the seam from the shoulder edge to the mark for the zipper stop, and then install the zipper as an exposed zip with a welt pocket type opening instead - this would hide the zipper tape, leave no gap at the end and keep that shoulder seam strong too. Or at lease use a zip longer than the magazine recommends!<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xQ2Tt4o_UNQ/Xso5KvlSEyI/AAAAAAAAKyM/BPRKWTR6iGwlf9AbJ2Yaz6lOwLzDXeV8ACPcBGAYYCw/s1600/maroon%2Bplaid%2Bneck%2Bzip%2Bcollage.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="four photos showing a close up of the zipper insertion into the shoulder of a top" border="0" data-original-height="560" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xQ2Tt4o_UNQ/Xso5KvlSEyI/AAAAAAAAKyM/BPRKWTR6iGwlf9AbJ2Yaz6lOwLzDXeV8ACPcBGAYYCw/s1600/maroon%2Bplaid%2Bneck%2Bzip%2Bcollage.jpg" title="maroon plaid top with zipper Burda 11/2015 #112 www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div>
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Ironically it turns out that I should have narrowed the shoulders anyway because this sits off my shoulder point - that would have solved the problem of that little gap! Although looking at the pattern I think it's designed with an extended shoulder.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-e9E3FIQmX-g/Xso4rgQ3jeI/AAAAAAAAKxw/spYTBjYREcoDkNEc4aa60B9lQ5VxZpYmwCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/maroon%2Bplaid%2Btop%2Bneck%2Bzip%2B2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="close up photo of a zipper" border="0" data-original-height="420" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-e9E3FIQmX-g/Xso4rgQ3jeI/AAAAAAAAKxw/spYTBjYREcoDkNEc4aa60B9lQ5VxZpYmwCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/maroon%2Bplaid%2Btop%2Bneck%2Bzip%2B2.jpg" title="maroon plaid top with zipper Burda 11/2015 #112 www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Oniln9zEbXQ/Xso4sm_EOjI/AAAAAAAAKyE/EuQijAfdaMsZXd4nF7F90ztQa5Mo_M_CwCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/maroon%2Bplaid%2Btop%2Bneck%2Bzipper%2B1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="photo of a woman wearing a top with a zipper on the shoulder" border="0" data-original-height="747" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Oniln9zEbXQ/Xso4sm_EOjI/AAAAAAAAKyE/EuQijAfdaMsZXd4nF7F90ztQa5Mo_M_CwCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/maroon%2Bplaid%2Btop%2Bneck%2Bzipper%2B1.jpg" title="maroon plaid top with zipper Burda 11/2015 #112 www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div>
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Because of my forward rounded shoulders (thanks to being a side sleeper and having poor posture) I'm getting a fold of fabric across the front below the neckline. For my next version I would do a forward shoulder adjustment by taking a bit of width out of the front and adding it to the back instead.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lqR2FznkA5U/Xso4rbgTGLI/AAAAAAAAKxs/g9044p2H9EgDT-WrNdfOLMrQxIR50cHYwCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/maroon%2Bplaid%2Btop%2Bfront%2B4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="photo of a woman posing" border="0" data-original-height="747" data-original-width="560" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lqR2FznkA5U/Xso4rbgTGLI/AAAAAAAAKxs/g9044p2H9EgDT-WrNdfOLMrQxIR50cHYwCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/maroon%2Bplaid%2Btop%2Bfront%2B4.jpg" title="maroon plaid top with zipper Burda 11/2015 #112 www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div>
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So if you're still here reading - welcome back and thanks for sticking around! I hope to get into more a regular routine with my posting. So many projects to catch up on....Kristy Chanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07385704380789244157noreply@blogger.com60tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5916038188571690726.post-5555652678749803162019-07-09T21:46:00.000+10:002019-07-09T21:46:21.692+10:00Vintage Vogue 1489: giant collared suitAfter what seemed like an endless summer and non-existent autumn Sydney is finally having some cold weather. I love winter - wearing chunky knits and not having to worry about getting a sunburn from being in the sun for three seconds is definitely my thing! So it's timely that I finally finished sewing a new wool suit for work - actually I finished this about 3 weeks ago but it took me some time to find the right buttons and then get around to sewing them on.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FpyeVMcqpsA/XSRylTg7S0I/AAAAAAAAKo4/4kSXtQGoM04oOmIwE9Qf6O3ftQibO2rOQCLcBGAs/s1600/vogue%2Bvintage%2Bsuit%2Bfront%2B2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="lady posing in a handmade grey skirt suit" border="0" data-original-height="780" data-original-width="565" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FpyeVMcqpsA/XSRylTg7S0I/AAAAAAAAKo4/4kSXtQGoM04oOmIwE9Qf6O3ftQibO2rOQCLcBGAs/s640/vogue%2Bvintage%2Bsuit%2Bfront%2B2.JPG" title="Vogue 1489 vintage grey wool skirt suit www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" width="462" /></a></div>
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When it comes to collars on suit jackets, I usually prefer no collar at all except it seems when the collar is HUGE! This is a 1960 Vogue pattern that is a pretty simple style except for that oversized notched collar.<br />
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Luckily this was a fairly simple project to sew because in true vintage style there was only one page of instructions for the entire jacket. I followed the vintage techniques as well, including hand basting in canvas interfacing instead of using fusible, and pad stitching that giant collar to support it. <br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8tcfst9_HII/XSRyk0haXuI/AAAAAAAAKo0/iloEdg3BxoYB2o387MXSJz_wYyFfBKLSwCLcBGAs/s1600/vogue%2Bvintage%2Bsuit%2Bcollar.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="close up of a large collar on a ladies suit jacket" border="0" data-original-height="848" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8tcfst9_HII/XSRyk0haXuI/AAAAAAAAKo0/iloEdg3BxoYB2o387MXSJz_wYyFfBKLSwCLcBGAs/s1600/vogue%2Bvintage%2Bsuit%2Bcollar.JPG" title="Vogue 1489 vintage grey wool skirt suit www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div>
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I also lengthened the sleeves because my wrists get too cold to wear bracelet length. Apart from that I didn't make any changes - I even put in some slim shoulder pads. I used premade ones though - no one has time to make their own! I'm not sure about those shoulder pads though, they make me feel really bulky around the shoulders and I think my neck looks really short and stumpy in this.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bGSbGfsmhOA/XSRynIehwEI/AAAAAAAAKpE/QMwQAvYf2TMOCzOmIyaJI0Yju4brWSuwQCLcBGAs/s1600/vogue%2Bvintage%2Bsuit%2Bjacket.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="lady posing in a grey wool suit jacket" border="0" data-original-height="848" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bGSbGfsmhOA/XSRynIehwEI/AAAAAAAAKpE/QMwQAvYf2TMOCzOmIyaJI0Yju4brWSuwQCLcBGAs/s1600/vogue%2Bvintage%2Bsuit%2Bjacket.JPG" title="Vogue 1489 vintage grey wool skirt suit www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div>
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The back view is fairly plain - darts at the shoulders and vertical darts to give waistline shaping. If only I had better posture and stood up straight then I wouldn't have those annoyng drag lines on the back! </div>
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It took me a while to find some buttons, and I was very nearly going to make some fabric covered buttons when I stumbled accross these simple angled buttons in Spotlight of all places. I didn't do the bound buttonholes because I thought there was a high risk of stuffing them up and ruining my jacket when it was practically finished. The buttons cover the buttonholes though, and those buttons really make the jacket. At nearly $5 each they are the most expensive part of the jacket, because the fabric I've used was picked up from a Sydney Spoolettes fabric swap last year. It's a gorgeous wool, so I can't understand why anyone would give this away, but I think I've made very good use of it!</div>
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The skirt I've made to go with the jacket isn't from this pattern - I just used my favourite Burda high waisted pencil skirt because I know it fits me perfectly. This is <a href="https://loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com/2018/03/burda-of-month-22018-119-high-waisted.html">Burda 2/2018 #119</a>, which I've made a few times before, including this cute <a href="https://loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com/2018/03/burda-of-month-22018-119-high-waisted.html">version</a> in green floral barkcloth that I wear all the time.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XXR3KqCeYuo/XSRyqd7XQEI/AAAAAAAAKpM/PwB29-IHJas0JkE0fKiyHiUGokDEujQNQCLcBGAs/s1600/vogue%2Bvintage%2Bsuit%2Bskirt%2Bfront.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="picture of a woman wearing a grey pencil skirt" border="0" data-original-height="848" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XXR3KqCeYuo/XSRyqd7XQEI/AAAAAAAAKpM/PwB29-IHJas0JkE0fKiyHiUGokDEujQNQCLcBGAs/s1600/vogue%2Bvintage%2Bsuit%2Bskirt%2Bfront.JPG" title="Burda 2/2019 #119 grey wool pencil skirt www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nz7ZGkX2ug0/XSRyokcSaOI/AAAAAAAAKpI/aKWdwkRXhfURPA96jnslGu0lF447hEwkACLcBGAs/s1600/vogue%2Bvintage%2Bsuit%2Bskirt%2Bback.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="picture of a woman wearing a grey wool skirt" border="0" data-original-height="770" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nz7ZGkX2ug0/XSRyokcSaOI/AAAAAAAAKpI/aKWdwkRXhfURPA96jnslGu0lF447hEwkACLcBGAs/s1600/vogue%2Bvintage%2Bsuit%2Bskirt%2Bback.JPG" title="Burda 2/2019 #119 grey wool pencil skirt www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div>
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Overall I really like this suit even if it makes me look like a football quarterback with those shoulders. Maybe one day I'll undo the lining and remove the pads, but knowing me I'll probably just keep wearing it as it is and just think about doing it everytime I wear it<br />
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<br />Kristy Chanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07385704380789244157noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5916038188571690726.post-42257777678513895842019-04-26T20:00:00.000+10:002019-04-26T20:00:03.387+10:00Vogue 9021: it's all about the sleeves<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HrSuWyFMh4A/XMLOz1Jc8mI/AAAAAAAAKnU/v3j_Eykl6-4XHsDbOlTKbY-WhCRqwdA-ACEwYBhgL/s1600/vogue%2B9021%2Bblue%2Bfloral%2Bfront%2B3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="848" data-original-width="565" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HrSuWyFMh4A/XMLOz1Jc8mI/AAAAAAAAKnU/v3j_Eykl6-4XHsDbOlTKbY-WhCRqwdA-ACEwYBhgL/s1600/vogue%2B9021%2Bblue%2Bfloral%2Bfront%2B3.JPG" title="navy blue floral flutter sleeve dress www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div>
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I'm still playing catch up to blog all my completed projects - here's a dress I finished in January and have worn quite frequently since then. This is <a href="https://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v9021">Vogue 9021</a> - a simple fitted sheath dress with rather dramatic cut on sleeves.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1jXrUcEGVLg/XMLUFYjoJkI/AAAAAAAAKno/anbdIdKcEx8Wn-b2IbPBdIko_zefoOrPwCLcBGAs/s1600/vogue%2B9021%2Bpattern.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="456" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1jXrUcEGVLg/XMLUFYjoJkI/AAAAAAAAKno/anbdIdKcEx8Wn-b2IbPBdIko_zefoOrPwCLcBGAs/s400/vogue%2B9021%2Bpattern.jpg" title="Vogue 9021 dress with flutter sleeves" width="283" /></a></div>
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Those sleeves are my favourite feature of this dress, but unfortunately if you make this pattern according to the pattern the armholes are so low they practically extend down to your waistline and give a clear view of your chest every time you lift your arms. When I made this dress previously I extended the side seam up much higher, so I did that adjustment from the outset this time.<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-u29q1g9_PJQ/XMLO0dTtiJI/AAAAAAAAKnY/lnNuRAEzVOY1-H9CDvdWUGUymV22szL5ACEwYBhgL/s1600/vogue%2B9021%2Bblue%2Bfloral%2Bfront%2B4.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="848" data-original-width="565" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-u29q1g9_PJQ/XMLO0dTtiJI/AAAAAAAAKnY/lnNuRAEzVOY1-H9CDvdWUGUymV22szL5ACEwYBhgL/s1600/vogue%2B9021%2Bblue%2Bfloral%2Bfront%2B4.JPG" title="navy blue floral flutter sleeve dress www.loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com" /></a></div>
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Those sleeves however make it difficult to wear a jacket or cardigan over the top so I'm not sure I'll wear this dress much over the winter. The fabric is an <a href="https://atelierbrunette.com/en/">Atelier Brunette</a> viscose that I bought online from the<a href="https://www.maaidesign.com.au/"> Maai Design</a> on line shop after seeing so many people use this fabric. The fabric is a lot thinner than I expected, and a bit transparent so I fully lined this dress in a thin navy blue cotton poplin.<br />
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I have to admit that I bought this fabric purely because of FOMO - I saw so many great garments popping up in my Instagram feed that I simply had to have some. But now that I've made it into a dress, even though it's a pattern that I love, I just feel a bit blah about it. I can't quite decide whether it's because the print feels a bit 1980s to me or whether I just feel a bit frumpy in this, but either way I don't love it as much as this <a href="http://loweryourpresserfoot.blogspot.com/2018/04/swaying-palms-vogue-9021-dress-and.html">palm print version</a> I made from a cotton sateen last year:<br />
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I didn't buy much of this fabric because it's on the pricier side, so I didn't have enough fabric to spare to pattern match at the seams. It's such a busy print that I doubt it's noticeable at all to someone who doesn't sew.<br />
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In terms of the pattern it really is very simple and definitely deserves to be in the Very Easy Vogue category. I did grade between sizes as usual - smaller at the top and larger at the bottom, and thanks to the waistline with darts it is easy to get a close fit at my sway back.<br />
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Kristy Chanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07385704380789244157noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5916038188571690726.post-11871475959636681512019-04-15T20:32:00.000+10:002019-04-15T20:32:53.280+10:00Vogue 8667 - finally got thereEvery so often I glance at my UFO pile and think about finishing some of those projects languishing in it. Well finally I have finished one after several attempts and it is such a relief to get it done to a wearable stage!<br />
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This is <a href="https://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v8667">Vogue 8667</a>, a princess seamed dress with a rolled collar and a skirt options. Looks pretty simple right? I had originally set out to make view E - the straight skirt and short sleeved version.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cAuOygBGjXQ/XLRW_rV4KPI/AAAAAAAAKlQ/VIAEGdx10MszgBxFrc6JM7tXksWLp8-3QCLcBGAs/s1600/v8667.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="707" data-original-width="514" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cAuOygBGjXQ/XLRW_rV4KPI/AAAAAAAAKlQ/VIAEGdx10MszgBxFrc6JM7tXksWLp8-3QCLcBGAs/s400/v8667.jpg" title="Vogue 8667 dress sewing patter" width="290" /></a></div>
I don't know why it took me so long to finish this - I just kept losing steam at every hurdle. Firstly I should have measured the flat pattern pieces more carefully to make sure I sewed the right size, because it turned out way too big. So I set it aside for a while to think about it. A few months later I picked it up again and pin fitted it while wearing it - I had to take the dress in quite substantially at the sides to make it fit across the bust. I also flattened the bust curve to make a faux small bust adjustment.<br />
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But once I had made that change the sleeve would no longer work - it was too big to fit into the now much smaller armhole opening, but making the sleeve narrower made it too tight to fit my arms! So away it went again for a few more months. Finally in January this year I decided to either finish it or scrap it, but thankfully it worked out. I changed the sleeve to a cap sleeve so I could get the shoulder coverage but not the tight feeling around my bicep - it all worked out in the end phew!<br />
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But the real star of this dress is the rolled neckline. I love the wide neckline and stand up collar - I feel very ladylike when wearing this, but it does make it hard to wear a jacket or cardigan over it.<br />
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I've left the collar at the back to splay open above the top of the zip. It is meant to have a hook and eye at the collar roll line (ie at the halfway point of collar) to make it stand up slightly, but I knew from past experiences with this type of collar that the hook and eye never stay closed and my hair tends to get caught in it instead.<br />
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The other design aspect I like about this pattern is the waist seam - it helps get a neater fit for my swayback. It causes pattern disruption at the waist line of course, but in a busy print like this it's barely noticeable but you can see from the side view that the fit is quite tailored.<br />
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The back view is rather plain and simple, with just a small walking vent<br />
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So even though it took me a very long time to finish this dress, I'm glad I didn't give up on it and preserved until the end. I really can't explain why I had no enthusiasm for this particular project - the fabric is a lovely double knit from the Remnant Warehouse in a great teal and lilac coloured print and I do love the design lines of the pattern. I guess that sometimes you just need to be in the right frame of mind.Kristy Chanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07385704380789244157noreply@blogger.com0